2001 T&C Limited rear door does not open automatic..

When I press the button from remote or inside the van it beeps and make noise of opening, but does not lift by itself. I think it’s the motor!! Could be anything else? Like fuse?
thanks pros

Since you said it beeps, I'll assume you mean the rear liftgate.   Will it power closed sometimes?  will the door "pop" into the secondary latch position? When mine went bad, it would sometimes power closed (but mostly not).  It turned out to be the "pawl switch" was bad.  The door has a number of switches that tell the control computer the state of the door.  The first thing it needs to do is "pop"-- the pawl switch tell it when it is in the popped position and then the  computer starts the lift motor.  If it doesn't get the right signal from any of the switches it will stop the cycle.  The most likely switches to go bad are all located within the latch which is replaced as an assembly-- I think it was about $100.  In my case I was able to pinpoint the problem with a DRBIII scan tool (the dealer scan tool), but replacing the latch would be a good bet and wouldn't cost much more than a dealer "diagnosis fee" anyway.

it does open and close with remote or manualy, but does not open all way up (doesnt pop), the door doesn't open. You can hear the motor opening when you press the latcher or remote. but the lift motor doesn't make any noise (its dead).
thanks guys

dan194, when ths happen could you hear any noyse from the lift motor?

quote:

ORIGINAL: jquinones

it does open and close with remote or manualy, but does not open all way up (doesnt pop), the door doesn't open. You can hear the motor opening when you press the latcher or remote. but the lift motor doesn't make any noise (its dead).
thanks guys

 
No, you should not expect to hear any noise from the lift motor.  The computer never turns it on because it doesn't get the right signal from the switches, so that doesn't mean the motor is dead.  As mentioned above, it is possible that you just need to shim the rubber bumpers out a little bit.  There is a TSB (technical service bulletin) that suggests that, so it wouldn't hurt to try.  In my case it did not help because the problem was a bad switch in the latch mechanism.

No,the motor does not run because the computer does not sense the hatch is clear.With the shims the hatch pops free and the computer says okay lets open.It takes 5 min to try  and costs nothing.Mine would act up more when it was cold.I believe it was because the rubber bumpers lost some of their spring but with the shims the spring was then still there and the hatch cleared.Good luck

I'll try to do that, but could you explen to me step by step and location please?
my English sometimes is complicate to understand.
 
Thank you guys very much

There are rectangular shaped rubber bumpers in the door sill on each side of the van at about tail light level, you can't miss them.

,Try putting shims under the bumpers #1 in this picture.moe

ok I see,
I try to close the door with the remot or inside the van and doesnt work too. Is that normal the door be very light to open or close by hand? Like the sides door if you try with your hand is very havy to open or close ( so I use a lot the remote and inside the van to open/close the side doors.)
 
thanks

Thanks a lot MOE, I like pictures, I don't like to make mistakes.
 
I'll try that MOE.

thanks a lot MOE I'll try that, I like pictures :D
thanks

there was also a flash that was done at the same time ,heres  the tsb #23-035-00,ask your dealer since thats when the flash has to be done from.moe

Yes correct, it beeps (like truck when it gives rear), lights flashes and locker opens, the only thing that does not happen is the trunk door that won't lift.

Your problem sounds exactly like mine was.Try the shims and let us know how you made out.Start with one steel washer on each screw behind the rubber block and against the van body.If needed try two washers on each screw.Good luck

I did shim like you said,  of 1/4 of a inch but nothing!! did not work!! now the door pops even harder but not lifting!!
any other idea?
thanks guys

there is a lift gate module that might be failing on you,i beleive its in the rear quarter on drivers side.

correct, but how can I fix this?
thanks

quote:

ORIGINAL: jquinones

I did shim like you said,  of 1/4 of a inch but nothing!! did not work!! now the door pops even harder but not lifting!!
any other idea?
thanks guys

 
This sounds exactly like mine.  If I were you, I'd try replacing the latch on the liftgate.  The part will cost you less than the diagnostic at the dealer.  The dealer would have the benefit of a DRBIII scan tool which allows them to watch the switch states from the comfort of the driver's seat.  However, if you really want to test it, you could take the interior trim off the liftgate, go inside with an ohm meter and manually check the state of the pawl switch when the door is in full closed position and then again when the door is popped.  If the switch state does not change, you have verified the problem.
 
Maybe someone here can post a pin-out of the connector on the latch module that will show which pins to test. 
 
Again-- after the liftgate control module pops the liftgate, it must receive the correct signal from th pawl switch indicating that the door is popped before it starts the opening sequence.