Greetings, trying to help out my nephew.. 2000 LHS, the brake lines from the MC to the ABS unit are rotted and leaking.. I ordered the parts, just wondering how to gain access to the ABS unit to get to the 2 lines I have to change... Is it from underneath, or through the wheel well? How much stuff needs to be removed to get access to it? Any caveats I should be aware of? I have worked on cars for many years, and have a sizeable tool collection.. Haven't touched a Chrysler product though since my first car (a 1966 Belvedere)...

 

I guess no one has done this.. I found that I had to remove the front bumper/grill as well as the windshield washer fluid tank to get access to the line connections on the ABS unit. Part is still on order, hopefully be installed later this week or on the weekend... I hope I can mange not to get air inside the ABS unit, as the documentation I have seen mentions hooking up some kind of computer to get the ABS unit into the proper mode for bleeding it..

 

Bumper cover and washer tank out is the trick for access. Sorry did not see this earlier. Easy removal, a few push pins, 2 nuts from the fender well plug, 2 bolts under the fender corners and it's off.
FSM and service literature says a scan tool is needed but you can bleed the ABS without one. Bleed the brake system normally, pump and bleed, engine off. Then cycle the key a few times, on for a few seconds then off for a few. (Every time you start the car the ABS Cycles) Rebleed the system. Cautious road test then rebleed, should be good to go.

 

Thanks, will be doing this tomorrow... I hope to minimize the air in the system by using my mityvac to pull fluid into each line and then quickly attach to the ABS unit.. Sounds good in theory, I will see what actually happens... I assume the wheel bleeding sequence is furthest wheel to closest wheel...

 

Diagonal split system, bleed sequence RR/LF LR/RF

 

Got him back on the road, brakes are good after two bleeding cycles.. thanks for the info...

 

Good deal, glad to help