300M, Concorde, LHS, New Yorker Discuss the Chrysler LH platform cars within.

Overheating and leaking antifreeze

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  #11  
Old 04-03-2009, 04:52 PM
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All the seals on the engine are blown (main seals, valve seals, etc.). I'm parting out the car now. There's only 3 of the orignal rims in good condition with fairly new tires. The interior is in good condition so just contact me if you're interested.
 
  #12  
Old 04-04-2009, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by trigga_b
All the seals on the engine are blown (main seals, valve seals, etc.). I'm parting out the car now. There's only 3 of the orignal rims in good condition with fairly new tires. The interior is in good condition so just contact me if you're interested.

Trigga_b~ I am so sorry to hear about the LHS.
 
  #13  
Old 04-07-2009, 09:40 PM
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Default Head gasket

Hi Trigga before going thru just getting your head gasket changed if your car got to hot and redlined(went all the way to hot) you might want to have your heads checked they may have cracked so replacing a head gasket with a cracked head will not do you any good it will just keep happening any machine shop can do it and they usually don't charge that much its what a mechanic is going to charge you to take it off. To bad you werent here in south dakota cause I would tell you to bring it to my shop instead of your school. I did that once before I knew what I did about cars and trucks and had them do a engine for me yeah that didn't even hold up a month. But good luck just thought Id throw that in and hope it isn't a cracked head
 
  #14  
Old 04-16-2009, 03:47 PM
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anything is possible. But i would check out everything from hoses, thermostat, to even maybe doing a pressure test to be sure where the leak is coming from
 
  #15  
Old 04-24-2009, 11:59 PM
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change the water pump too.....signs of a water pump going bad on a 2.7 chrysler are
....white milky film inside the oil cap. on the cap only. (that was my first sign)
1 month later....white smoke like steam from exaust on heavy accelleration
2 weeks later....car wont stay running, cutting off after a few minutes maybe 3 times
5 minutes later....engine wont restart. engine hot, too tight. must cool to restart....
4 minutes.... chain gets slack and jumps timing, breaks piece off chain tensor arm
....oil and water mixed in the crankcase. visible on the stick as milky now. tow home
girlfriends car did this. so my advise to all 2.7 owners is watch for sign of moisture at oil fill cap inside the cap being white and milky looking. replace the water pump fast or pay more later. at least that was the lesson i learned. well that and watch for the oil in the cap. oh and one other thing how to replace a head gasket that was good how to replace a internal water pump how to compress lifters and reset them how to install a new timing chain and replacement tensor arm. how to replace oil pump and pan gasket and rod bearings. i could have just replaced the chain and water pump but i wanted to be sure it would last. it had 239,000 on it when it went. a 2001 concorde runs like before now...approx 400.00 to 700.00 later cant remember exactly how much we spent.......
 
  #16  
Old 05-24-2009, 06:51 AM
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just a thought.....having worked on my sister in laws 94 saturn radiator, my wifes 99 saturn radiator and now my 2000 LHS radiator, I would check these things:

1 hose clamps/hoses
2. radiator petcock(drain)
3 look for leaks around the tranny and engine cooler lines. All three vehicles I mentioned working on had cracks/leaks in this area due to the fittings seizing, then when someone attempted to remove fittings, cracked the plastic tank. My original LHS radiator actually had some kind of glue applied to the surface in an attempt to repair the leak. If you have a lot of miles on it, it's a good bet someone may have cracked the tank much like I described.
 
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