I have a 94 Eagle Vision. It's been extremely dependable and low-maintenance, but not long ago, all the instrument panel indicators stopped working, including speedo, tach, fuel and temp gauges, and odometers. The panel is still illuminated, but that's all.

Changing the instrument panel fuse did not fix the problem. It's been suggested that the problem is with the BCM (Body Control Module), or BCM circuit board.

A new BCM is about $500, and similar for the circuit board. Rather than paying the dealer $1000+ for new items, I was thinking about getting a BCM and/or board from a junkyard and putting it in myself, to see if that fixes the problem.

Any thoughts about the advisability of a used BCM, and/or twiddling with it myself? Does the BCM have to come from a car of precisely the same model and year?

 

There don`t appear to be many folks jumping up and down to answer this post... I take it there are 3 or 4 Eagle Vision owners on here, at best; but I digress.

Since your vehicle is pre ODB-II, I`d be comfortable using a BCM from model years 93-95. If your ride has the OTIS (mounted by the rear-view mirror) that indicates your vehicle is equipped with a premium BCM, as opposed to a standard one. They are different. The premium BCM contains circuitry to drive the automatic A/C, the OTIS display and the VTSS (on-board alarm system).

As for exact models... I`m betting a BCM from a `Trep, a `Corde, a New Yorker or an LHS would work in your Eagle.

Visions rock!!

 

Haven't ever had to replace the BCM in an eagle as of yet but just a couple of words of caution before you do:

Most need the VIN programmed into them

Sometimes when a used BCM is installed and has VTSS, vehicle theft security system, on it and the PCM doesn't it will tell the pcm it does and the vehicle wont start. to fix this you need a new pcm and bcm.

 

Which vehicles have you had to do this with? As for the 1st generation LH vehicles (93-97 Vision, Concorde, Intrepid & LHS) when a premium BCM is installed, the VIN does not need to be programmed into it. I repeat, no trip to the dealer is necessary; this is 100% DIY. If you`ve had different experience, please correct me.

Quite right! The premium BCM and the existing PCM can be "touchy" together. This results in the PCM refusing to fire the injectors. However, you don`t have to replace the BCM or PCM if this happens. You can disable the VTSS on the BCM by temporarily shorting two pins together, allowing the PCM to operate normally. If you need specifics, please PM me... some folks feel it`s a security issue to post this type of info publically. (I don`t have a problem with it, but some do.)

 

I have heard a few horror stories on this topic, though I am not sure what makes / models they were....

When unsure, best to go with your gut instinct...

I say...go to your dealer, make friends, then ask for a discount. Remember...the economy sucks and they are almost desperate for business...you should be able to get a deal out of them if you ask.

Good luck!!!!

 

I am having the exact issue. TigerShare can you please supply me how to jump the BCM for the VTSS

Thank You

 

You can try unplug your VTSS on the keyring if is the same kind of 300M, on my M worked when i mounted a Mopar Remote Start ,before program the VTSS bypass modul , and started the car with a normal key , without ship.

 

Sure thing. Here's a way to connect a disarm switch to the VTSS circuit. Normally, 1st Gens have a cylinder switch mounted inside the driver's door, so when you insert your key and turn it, the alarm is disabled. However, some Visions do not have the cylinder switch (mine didn't). The steps below will electrically duplicate the disable switch:

1. Remove the BCM from behind the passenger-side kick panel by removing 1 Phillips screw, lower it to unplug the connectors. If there are 2 connectors, you have a plain vanilla BCM. If there are 3, then you have a premium BCM.

2. Place it on a table. Undo the 4 Torx cover screws.

3. Examine the BLACK connector and locate pin 3. That's "lock disarm". Carefully solder a 4' length of 18 or 20 AWG wire to this pin, inside the case. Alternatively, you may splice into the harness wire; it's 20 AWG LG/OR.

4. Now look at the BONE connector and get pin 21. That's "body ground". Solder a wire to it inside the case. Or, splice into the harness again; 20 AWG BLK.

5. Extend the wires out of the case through a cooling slot. Put the BCM back together.

6. Plug all connectors back in and install the BCM back up in the kick panel.

7. Route 2 wires to a hidden but convenient spot under dash and connect a small SPST switch. If the alarm is tripped for any reason, pressing this switch will now reset it. It takes the place of a factory door cylinder switch.

Obviously, you don't want this switch to be real obvious. It is, after all, the alarm defeat.