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We just bought my daughter a 02 Sebring LX 2.4L as her first car. Her power door locks will unlock just fine using either the switch on the door or the key FOB. As far as locking, that's another story. The door locks must be locked manually. They will not lock with the switch or with the key FOB.
The story continues. After doing some research I found some websites that said to check the #5 (IOD) fuse in the junction block so I checked it and it was good. Her battery for the car is OK, just OK, and it seems to drain some overnight. I have bought a new battery but haven't put it in because I want to know what's draining the battery before I was a brand new battery.
Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.
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The system is designed to not allow you to electrically lock the doors with the key in the ignition once the engine is off and the door is opened. That's so you won't lock the keys in the car. There's a little switch in the ignition that senses the key's presence. Your switch may be stuck. You could try a little WD-40 on the key to see if you can get it unstuck.
If your battery is dying overnight, it could be either a bad battery or a partial short somewhere. The proper procedure for checking for a short involves measuring the current that flows with everything switched off. You want to maintain the connection between the negative terminal and the cable while you disconnect it by using a jumper wire, then connect your ammeter across the connection and remove the jumper. That way you'll avoid the surge that occurs when you reconnect the battery after disconnecting it. The current should be in the neighborhood of 0.050 amperes. This is what is required to keep the clock running and the sensor for the remote keyless entry.
If it's much more than that, you can isolate the short by removing fuses one at a time until the current drops, then you'll need to track down the problem. Make sure no interior lights are left on or something dumb like that. It happens.
For some reason her door locks started to work...for a little bit.
When we got home I did the Ignition Off Draw Test. I read .038/.039 amps with the fuses in and started to pull fuses one at a time. When I pulled the #5 (IOD Fuse), I got a reading of .012amps so I think that's the circuit with the problem.
When drive I can hear the Autolock try to lock the door (first I hear the clicking from I believe the Body Control Module then I hear the door locks try to lock but all they do is click.
You pulled the fuses one at a time until you pulled the IOD fuse which dropped the current down by .026 amperes. That .026 amperes represents the current drawn by the clock and the receiver for the remote keyless entry. It is not out of line and certainly does not mean that "that's the circuit with the problem." There should be a slight draw through that circuit with the key off. "IOD" stands for "ignition off draw". Outside the IOD circuit you have a draw of 0.012 amperes. That probably should be 0.000 amperes, but it's such a tiny amount of current, I wouldn't worry about it. That returns us to the original problem of the battery dying overnight. I think your battery is bad. It might have an internal short.
Did you try the WD-40 on the key trick?
I'm having the same problem on my 97 Sebring Convertable. Mechanic said he doesn't know where it's draining from but it is about a half an amp drain when everything is off. Please advise. I need to fix this problem soon.
The system is charging fine. Alternator passed as fine, if this is what you are asking.
I'm thinking the security alarm system may be also draining the battery somehow. Any ideas on how to dismantle this? fuse?
pulled # 5 fuse... i thought this was it... but, yesterday the battery drained completely even though this fuse was not in the box. So, I put it back in as I can see this is not the cause of the battery drain.
I have been told to get an ammeter and a battery charger and pull each fuse out one by one to determine the drain source.
Q: Any particular type of Ammeter I should purchase? I assume a digital one.
Q: I am thinking more and more that the computer is telling something to stay on while the car is turned off. Is it possible that I may have to replace the computer?
Q: Would the convertible top be a cause of the drain if the computer where telling it to be down? I see the switch for it but never put the top down.. I may have bumped it but I do not know or understand the electrical system to this very well.
Q: What is in the drivers side door related to the computer? Many of the electrical problems started when this drivers side door got hit. I am inclined to think this is the root of the problem with the drain.
If you want to measure current, yes, you need an ammeter. "Ammeter" is a shortened version of "ampere meter". Current is measured in amperes. Most volt-ohm meters have a current measuring function (ammeter capability), but limited to maybe a half amp or so, which is good enough for this purpose. Nowadays digital is probably all you'll find. Google it.
Why did you pick on #5 fuse? Was there some reason behind that?
There are many fuses in two fuse boxes, one under the hood, and one at the left end of the the instrument panel. You'll need to check them all until you find the short.
What is your source of belief that the computer is at fault?
Same question regarding the convertible top?
Internal damage to the driver's door could be responsible given your report of collision damage there, but the way to find it is through isolating the current leak to a particular fuse circuit and then checking out that entire circuit.
Don't start by making some wild assumptions and then follow up by replacing expensive components without any basis in the hope that you might have guessed right. Approach the problem in a systematic and rational way and you'll stand a much better chance of fixing it. If you are in over your head, then hire it done.
In the mean time, disconnect the battery from the remote terminal on the left spring tower under the hood to stop the bleeding.
the car was recently turned into a sled off HWY 44 after hitting some black ice. Car was running great before accident. Many salvageable parts!!! Title ready. Receipts from all repairs from last 3 years.
More pictures available upon request.
convertible top in excellent condition,
newer fuel system
1 good newer passenger rear taillight, other is cracked.
both original headlights,
leather seats not torn,
200,8xx miles on engine, much more.. some body parts...