I have a 2004 sebring. My ac sometimes when I would turn on it would take a few minutes to finally turn on and blow when I was driving. All of a sudden the past 2 months my ac does not blow on any setting now. No ac no heat. I've takin the front plate off and pulled the wires off and reattached them making sure they were on tight. I also checked a fuse under the hood. Still nothing?

Is this a resistor.. Or what can be the issue?

 

Check fuses 1 and 11 in the fuse box at the left end of the dash.

Usually, when the resistor has a problem the blower will work but only on high.

It may be the motor itself.

It may also be the control head.

I am assuming you do not have automatic temperature control.

 

kick the motor wot your foot see if it starts blowing then u know u have a bad motor.

 

My car: 2004 Sebring LE Sedan. This vehicle has A/C but I assume my car does not have automatic temperature control.

Problem: All fan speeds failed simultaneously = no air flow and windows fog up right away (had to drive with windows open to minimize). HOWEVER, the next day everything (all four speeds) worked again 100%. Problem solved? NO.

FYI, I have read everything single thread and post about Sebring blow motor although perhaps not carefully enough. There might be something I missed, which is why I am here.

Troubleshooting done while blower motor was not working

- Fuses 1 and 11 = OK.
- "A/C Relay" 32 under hood has been checked and discretely tested = OK. I even swapped out another relay to be sure I didn't make a mistake.
- Disassembled blower motor completely (no water or crap present that would either cause electrical short or interfere with normal operation)
- Visually inspected all leads to the blower motor and they look OK.

I had to go and get alligator clips for my multimeter to continue troubleshooting but then like magic the blow motor started to work 100% so obviously it is hard to do troubleshooting during normal operating state. Furthermore, I guess the blow motor resistor bank next to the blower motor cannot be the point of failure (since as I learned in other threads the resistors are like a light blub they either work or do not and thus wouldn't suddenly come back online if blown). I realize these intermittent electrical issues can be more difficult to trace so I don't want to just start throwing parts at it because I want to confirm the exact cause before winter hits and I'm S.O.L when the windows start to fog up on the highway.

Help question: My multimeter only reads 10 Amps. So can I realistically test amperage draw in the event Sebring blow motor draws greater than 10 Amps? re: this tutorial video
I do not have that clamp meter used in the video, it seems like the more pro tool to use in order to either elimate or confirm the blower motor drawing too much current as the fault.

2nd help question: Anyone have more detailed info re: troubleshooting the control head unit? In other words, I read in previous threads about the switches sometimes being the point of failure.

P.S. This is best help video I've ever seen my entire life re: blower motor testing

 

I also tried this but nothing happened.

 

The intermittent nature of the failure leads me to suspect the control head. Maybe you saw the thread from the guy who disassembled the control head and carefully melted each solder joint which cured his problem. It cost nothing but time and energy and worked for him. What worked for me was replacing the control head with a new one. Your problem is a little different (dead blower vs wrong mode) but my problem was intermittent also. The heater wouldn't work when it got cold outside.

If yours has the three round ***** and no digital temperature readout, you have manual, not automatic temperature control.

 

Yep, my car is manual then in terms of temperature control. Makes sense as you have to physical dial in hot or cold, just wanted to confirm the "auto" feature wasn't some internal computer part being talked about.

Did you mean this thread by user JimG?

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...er-vent-22805/

I'll keep you guys posted to anyone reading this now or in the future. Thank you for the quick reply and help! P.S. I tried posting documentation into the photos section of the site of when I changed the ball joint of upper control arm but I cannot access the photos section of the site (says I do not have permission). Also, made a note of this posting issue in the ball joints thread where we original talked. You recommened to post tutorials into photos as the forum posts get burried and nobody reads them.

I can also post documentation of any soldering I have to do or whatever the solution ends up being in this case as a lot of other situations I read were just straight blower motor or resistor bank replacements (simple new in / old out fixes).

 

Yes, that's the thread I wasthinking about.

As for photos, you need to be an active member of theforum to post and access the photos. There's no set number of posts that trigger your permission, the admins of the forum extend permission when they decide you're not a hit-and-run spammer.

There's already a good photo essay on replacement of upper ball joints on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club website.

 

Update: Received my new Control Unit Friday and installed it. Victory! The new control unit has been working as it should since then.

So far so good. Would have been nice to actually figure out the exact cause of the failure inside of the Control Unit (I like to learn things as technically as possible not just throw parts at it and call it day without caring why). Besides the PCB there doesn't seem to be any serviceable parts on the selector switch. At least not for an amature with minimal tools.

I did end up reflowing the solder joints on the 8 header pins part of the control unit as suggested earlier in this thread while I waited for the delivery of the new part (second hand from an 06' Dodge via Ebay) but that didn't change anything on the old control unit, as fan control was still intermittent...these parts are expensive in Europe. Would have been 264€ from a dealer in Helsinki. Got mine through Ebay and with the part, shipping, and customs all in it was only 65€. Anyone reading this within the EU, maybe a dealer shouldn't be your first option. I mean don't necessarily be afraid to order a used part, but as ever buyer beware. My part came with a warranty and full return policy, which I know is rare when buying second hand.

 

Quick question, are all 3 ***** supposed to be back lit?

The Fan Speed, Temp Select, Mode Select?

On both the old control unit I replaced and the new one I installed only the Mode (far right) is back lit. I cannot remember how it was before all these problems.

There are 3 tiny bulbs inside when you take the climate control unit apart but what are the odds the exact same bulbs were burn on both new and old *****?

The owners manual only lists what kind of bulbs they are. If anyone can 100% confirm would save me the trouble of pulling it out and disassembling yet again. Googling this information was not so cut an dry before anyone tries to get smart and pull a "let me google that for you" on me.

Cheers.