My girlfriend has a 2001 Sebring sedan with 2.7L DOHC engine (40k miles).

Yesterday after a mile of city driving the engine cut out, she restarted it a few times and after a few seconds it cut out again, after sitting for about 20-30min it started and she was able to drive home the few blocks left and it cut out again just as she parked it. Today while I had her on the phone it did start and idled for a time (didn't cut out) but she didn't want to try and drive it.

I had her use the key on/off procedure to list codes:
P1684 - Battery Disc.
P1389 - No ASD relay output voltage
P1490 - Low speed Fan CTRL relay circuit
P1282 - Fuel Pump relay control circuit
P1685 - Skim invalid key

I assume those are the correct definitions for those codes (from internet)?
The P1685 is probably left from when she tried to get a spare key made with no chip and I assume the P1684 is common and may not be of any concern?

I was wondering since all the codes are electrical/relay related could it be just a blown fuse or loose connection (I don't have a Diagram to see if these all share a connection/harness) or is it more likely a bad computer?

I am going over to look at it tomorrow and any guidance in speeding up diagnosis would be appreciated, I am hoping it turns out to be relatively simple because we are both looking for work.

Any incite would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
p.s. I wouldn't consider myself an expert at electrical systems but I do know how to test.

 

There are a number of tests that should be performed associated with those codes related to the electrical circuitry. They are set out in a book called "Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures", and occupy many pages. Perhaps someone here has access to an electronic copy of the manual and can copy and send them to you, or you might search eBay for a copy. It is part of the collection of books making up the 2001 Service Manual set.
Having said all that, I would point out that the tests for each of those codes are directed at the wiring for the various circuits. Ultimately, however, they all conclude by saying if the wiring tests don't turn up anything, replace the PCM (engine computer).
If the vehicle had something recently happen to it that would mess up some of the wiring all at once (like an accident or flood damage), then by all means, the wiring should be checked. If not, then it's more likely than not that the common denominator here is the computer.
All that testing could run you a significant amount of money if professionally done. But for about $200 or so, you can replace the computer by buying a used and reprogrammed one on eBay. It's a bit of a gamble, without performing the testing, but might solve your problems.
Don't just try to slap a junkyard computer in there. You have to have the computer programmed with VIN and mileage before you install it. There are services on eBay that do that for you.

 

Thank you for the response.
The car has not been in an accident/flood, although we are in Chicago which just had that storm blow thru with 70mph winds and rain.
I was afraid that it might be the computer and would have to go to a dealer, thank you for the ebay possibilty. I couldn't get over to her car today but will be able to tomorrow.
I'll check for anything obvious and if I can't find anything I will look into replacing the computer.

 

I was finally able to get a comp from Ebay (had it programmed for VIN and mileage as suggested) and install it (was shocked how easy it was to replace) and the car turned over and ran for 2-4 secs maybe 3 times, and now it cranks but doesn't fire and gives me a P1289 - Manifold Tune Valve Solenoid Circuit. It is dirty (seems oily) all around were the Manifold Tuning Valve is (is very hard to find any info on this and can't even find the part available anywhere).

I am not sure how oil could be around this since it is on the intake manifold?
From the little info I have found would a faulty one even prevent the car from starting (maybe run rough, but it isn't firing at all)?
Is this maybe the one code I am getting because the computer didn't even have time to trigger more codes and is not the reason the car is not starting?
I have also read that I may be able to just clean it?
Can this part be purchased if it is defective outside of the dealer?
I know I need to test the wiring to it but did not have tester with me today, and was wondering if i could get any of the above questions answered before I spend any more time on it (the car is 50 miles away!).

Thanks for any help,
Jeff

p.s. I did re-install the old computer and the car won't even crank so at least something was wrong with the old computer?