Chrysler 200 & Sebring Whether it be the sedan, coupe, or convertible, this mid-sized model offers a touch of class to every style in it's lineup

Battery Killer

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  #11  
Old 01-07-2016, 03:05 AM
Vhamanoo's Avatar
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Yeah, hello all.

I`m from Europe and recently bought an american car, Chrysler Sebring convertible.

I`m loving the car, but it has some problems.

First of all, the CMTC or bord computer as we are saying in Europe is damaged, no green lights on it.

Took it to a repair guy and some things inside are boiled...

I look for one of that on E-bay but for the moment I can`t finf one, maybe some of you has one for sale

Second, I`ve noticed that I have a problem also with the battery, the fuse IGN SW (IGNITION SWITCH), is consuming curent, almost 1Amp.

Could be the mechanical part with the key?

And third, the air compressor is starting regulary from 1 minute to 1 minute alone....

Very strange, it starts, it stops, it starts, it stops.... even with the AC stopped and all the buttons off, also strange...


Any help pls?
 
  #12  
Old 01-07-2016, 10:11 AM
dcotter0579's Avatar
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It might help if you identified the year of your vehicle. They changed over the years.

As for your trip computer, keep looking on eBay. Sometimes you'll find a guy scrapping a car selling other parts. Write to him and ask if he has a trip computer for sale. Depending on the year, parts from a sedan may work on your convertible. Parts from a coupe are not likely to fit or work.

Normal current draw with all lights and the key off is about 0.050 amps or less. That represents the current needed to run the clock and the remote key receiver. If it's drawing nearly one ampere, you have a short somewhere or a defective component on that circuit. It could be the key switch but it could also be in the wiring or some other component on that circuit. There's no easy answer for that problem. If you take a common sense approach and are patient, you may be able to trace down the problem. Persistence and patience are necessary.

While you're at it, trace the circuit for your A/C compressor clutch. Make sure the entire A/C system and heater system are off. The A/C compressor is designed to come on when the system is in "defrost" mode so make sure the defroster is not on.
 
  #13  
Old 01-08-2016, 02:11 AM
Vhamanoo's Avatar
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First of all, thanks for your help.

Second, the year of the car is 1999, model LX I think, convertible with 2.0 litre, european model I think, altough the tail light are red and white like in America...

I will keep on searching for that trip computer on E-Bay.

I`ve measured the drain of curent, it`s around 1 Amp, wich is huge. When I remove the fuse called IGN SW from the compartiment located near the engine, tha drain is 0,03 AMP, so there must be a problem as you told me, somewhere...

I asked because maybe someone had the same problem, I think that the mechanical system of the ignition key is somehow making a short or something...

And last, what do you mean where you are saying "defrost mode"? Exactly what`s the position of that **** wheel of the direction of blowing air in the car?
 
  #14  
Old 01-08-2016, 11:23 PM
dcotter0579's Avatar
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Defrost mode means the air is blowing up onto the windshield from the opening on top of the dash, right under the glass. Because that mode is often used to clear fog off the inside of the glass, the air conditioning compressor is used to dry the air as much as possible.
 
  #15  
Old 11-07-2017, 01:16 PM
Elizabeth Zahabi's Avatar
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Default 2008 Sebring convertibles

Can this happen in a 2008 cuz I've went through 8 batteries in 5 month I've changed my alternate I'm at a loss
 
  #16  
Old 11-07-2017, 06:53 PM
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If you have a short circuit somewhere in the car it will drain the battery. Replacing the battery and the alternator will not help. You have to find the short and repair it.
With no lights on and the key off, the battery drain should be in the area of about 0.050 amps or less. This represents the current consumed by the clock and the remote key receiver which are on all the time. If it's much more than that you have something drawing too much current. You'll have to pull fuses one at a time until the current drops. The problem will be in the circuit of the last fuse pulled. Figure out what is on that circuit and isolate the devices on the circuit to narrow down the search. Then trace down the fault if you can. It's not rocket science, and if you are patient and persistent you can find a short. If you can't find it and must take it to a pro, tell him exactly what you have done to help him narrow his search and shorten the time he has to spend looking.
 
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