Hi all. I have an issue with my fan speeds. 1 & 2 blows virtually nothing, but the fan is running. on 3, it blows a bit harder. Maybe about like it should on 1 or 2. Then on 4 its like a hurricane. Could this be the resistor? The blower is working on speeds 1,2 & 3, but just barely. From the other posts I have read, if it were the resistor then 1, 2, & 3 would be dead and only 4 would blow. Any ideas?

 

I doubt it's the resistor. Like you said, when the resistor goes, only high speed works. I wonder if it's the mode door... When you check it at low speeds, where are you checking? Panel vents, defroster outlet, floor vents? Is it possible that the air is going where you don't want it to go? How are you judging air flow? Feel on the hand or noise level?

 

I am feeling the air coming from the front vents. If its hot out and I need the AC, I gotta keep switching between 3 and 4. 4 blows so hard and 3 barely blows that it gets too hot if I keep it on 3. The air seems to be coming from the correct vents. I did have an issue at one time with the air alternating between the defrost vents and the front vents. But I replaced the control panel, and it fixed that problem. I wonder if theres a way to check the resister for proper resistance. and what that resistance should be.

 

The blower resistor block is located in the heater plenum on the passenger side of the car. Replacing it is a fairly easy do-it-yourself project. Remove the "silencer panel" beneath the glove box and you'll see a place where a bunch of wires go into the heater housing. Remove that connector and remove the two screws that hold the thing that the wires plugged into. That's the resistor block. You can now pull it out. I don't know what the resistance values should be, but there should be continuity between the big pin on one end and each of the others. An open circuit indicates a burned resistor.
If you decide to replace it, the new one will probably be fatter than the old one. You'll need to slightly enlarge the hole the old one came out of to get the new one in. Don't try to force the fat one in the small hole.
In the meantime there's a calibration procedure you could try. It won't hurt:
With the engine running and the fan on any speed but off, turn the mode dial all the way to the right and the temp dial all the way to the left. Then press the rear defrost button until you hear a chime sound and let it go. The system will then go through a series of gyrations that takes about a minute and will calibrate itself. You may get a message on your odometer if it determines that something is amiss. I have not been able to find a source to interpret those error codes.

 

Well, it seems I solved my problem. It was the resistor after all. I pulled the old one out and checked the continuity. It checked good. But I decided to replace it anyhow. I checked the resistance in the new one. The new one did infact have less resistance than the old one. So, I installed it and now setteings 1, 2, and 3 blow much harder. Thanks for the help and hope this helps someone else.