Howdy all!
I ended up with a 2004 Sebring Convertible with 7,318 miles (!!) on the clock. And a locked up motor. I got it from (ready for this?) My wife's ex-husband's step-dad after the ex-husband's mom passed. Just before the step-dad passed, I gave him $500 for it.

Yes, convoluted, but here it sits in my driveway.
I basically have a brand new 2004 Sebring.

I've been looking for an engine. Yep, 2.7. I know that a rebuilt long block would be the 'best' way to go. However, not in my limited budget. It is the later engine, so even a usedengine from the salvage yards, they wanted a minimum of $800.

I finally found the ad on CL that I've been looking for, for almost 2 years. "2004 Stratus 4dr 2.7 V6 150,000mi runs great, new tires, cold AC, always used synthetic oil, religious maintenance, Had been T-Boned, $400"!!!!!!! And it's the correct engine!!!
So, I'm now getting together parts to freshen the engine and then do the swap. I plan on changing the timing chain, tensioners, etc., water pump, oil pan gasket,etc.
I wasn't planning on changing head gaskets unless there is a pressing reason to. Engine runs great at the moment.
Remember my limited budget.(I spent 2 months worth of my auto repair budget to grab the donor car for $400.)

I thought that I'd replace everything that might be leaking or need replacing on a 2.7 engine with 150k on it. Head gaskets will come at a later time, but are doable with the engine in the car (or aren't they?).

I thought that this would be this best forum to ask my questions and find my answers.

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Note to self: Always preview your posts, even though you cut and paste....

 

If you plan on doing the head gaskets do it while the engine is out of the car. Doing it later means you have to remove the intake, valve covers and timing chain which you are already going to do. Why do all that work twice. It's probably another two or three hours of work while the engine is out and apart. It's probably 20 hours when the engine is in the car. I've never replaced a 2.7 but I've been told they have to come out from the bottom. Hopefully someone can correct me if I'm mistaken. Are you going to be able to get the cars up high enough to drop them.

John

 

I have a 2 ton cherry picker from harbor freight. I thought that if I had to that I could take off the bumper cover and the upper radiator support and move the rad and AC condenser out of the way enough to lift the car and lower the engine.

Anyone have a better way? I know trying to get it out the top you have to remove intake and rear valve cover at the minimum.

 

I'm still looking for a FSM (cheap) to see what the "recommended" procedure is. And what I need to replace if I do change the headgaskets. Headsets say that they don't come with the head bolts-> So I'm assuming that headbolts 'should' be replaced but would have to wait even longer for my budget to allow them. However, I'd rather wait longer if necessary, than have the engine crap out on me within 5,000 miles.

 

The shop manual tells you to lower it out the bottom, removing the entire subframe and transmission. It assumes you have the full assortment of dealer tools and equipment at hand including an engine cradle and vehicle hoist.
People have claimed to be able to pull it out the top. Search the forum here and also over at the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club for discussions. When it's out of the car, that's the time to get all the big stuff done. Like the man says, it's ten times easier. In my experience, the easier a job is, the more likely it is to be done right.

 

You should never reuse head bolts on aluminum engines. Rock Auto has them for around $27 for a complete set. I would recommend Fel-Pro gaskets. They are about $24 each side so the whole job should cost under $100.

John

 

Thanks John and dcotter, You've convinced me.

Any job worth doing is worth doing right. The first time!

While I have the heads and pan off, I can check if the synthetic oil has done it's job in protecting against wear.
I wasn't planning on doing a complete rebuild. But I've got a running engine with 150k on it.

The original 2.7 in the Sebring (with 7300 miles on it), Had been sitting for a bit and one of the kids took it out for a drive. The oil light came on after driving around most of the day. They pulled over and checked the dipstick. NO oil on the stick! They called a tow truck. When he got there, he checked the oil and it was a quart low. When they got it to the shop, it was at the full mark.
The best the shop could figure out was that there was some flash on the heads that came loose and blocked the oil return passages from the heads. The shop was able to free the engine somewhat, but when you try to turn it over, something starts screaming.
I assume no oil to the tensioner, so valves hit pistons, bottom end ran dry, spun bearings, etc.. And, of course, out of warranty!

I would love to put an engine back in it, knowing that it should be good for another 100k. We'll see what she looks like on the inside, and go from there.

 

I've seen many 2.7's with well over 250K miles so 150K on a well maintained engine should last you a long time. If it used synthetic oil it's entire life you'll probably be surprised how clean it is. When you do the timing chain and water pump you should also do the oil pump. It's easy to replace once you have the crank sprocket off.

John

 

Thanks John.
I wasn't sure if the oil pump needed to be replaced. But as long as I'm in there, I might as well.
If it moves, it'll wear. Right?

As far as the guy I got the donor from knew, it had synthetic oil in it from the start.

I don't think it shows in the pics. The coolant tank has that orange-rusty color to it. But the antifreeze is green. So it has been flushed and changed before. Possibly if water pump had been replaced before.

There is no oil or coolant contamination evident.

The guy couldn't tell me if the timing components or water pump had been changed before he got it.

From what I've been able to find, the easiest way to get the engine out, in the driveway, without a lift, is to remove the bumper assembly and radiator support, radiator and condenser, and possibly the hood. And it looks like it should be fairly easy to get out.
If anyone has a better way, I'll listen.

Random thoughts while waiting for the coffee to kick in...lol.

Dan