Just bought a 04 Sebring Platinum Series Convertible. Love the car. Went to change the oil and filter, and the filter for an 04 is different than the one that was on it. It is a 2.7l but what year ? The filter that was on it was a Penzoil PZ19, I am curious as to what year the engine is an how I can find out so I get the right parts in the future. Thanks in advance.

 

Look on the back (side facing the transmission) of the engine block, just under the left (closer to the front of the car) cylinder head. There should be an engine identification number stamped there. The first number is the last digit of the model year. (1 = 2001, etc.)

The PZ 19 filter is the correct filter for any 2.7L of that era. What filter did you buy?

 

Thanks for the info. I ended up taking the old filter to the parts store to compare it with others. Found one that fit. It is a Mobil 1 filter M1-209, Don't know what it goes on but it works. The one the computer at the parts store had me get was a Fram TG16. Not even close to the one that was on the engine. Kinda wonder if someone did an engine swap at some point. Thanks again

 

This makes no sense. If you go to the Pennzoil site and look up the filter for your car, you get the PZ-16, which is the one you found on your car.
If you go to the Mobil-1 site and look up the filter they recommend, you get the Fram PH-16 and TG-16, among others.
So what you seem to be telling us is that you removed a PZ-16 filter (the correct one) from the car but couldn't install a TG-16 (the correct filter) back on.
An engine swap doesn't explain anything since the same filter is used on this engine for several years, despite some minor electrical changes.

 

The filter that was on the car was a PZ19 not the 16. The 16 in any brand filter was to big in diameter to fit. even though the car calls for the 16's filter, the 19 was small in diameter and long. the 16's were short and bigger in diameter. The filter that is listed for that year just wouldn't fit in the notch in the oil pan to screw on. I just ended up cross referencing the PZ19 filter and got a Mobil 1 filter that fit. Called previous owner to see if he at some time maybe changed out the motor

 

I see that I mixed up the 6 and the 9. Must have had an attack of dyslexia there. The PZ 19 is the correct filter per the Pennzoil page. I don't know whether the oil filter manufacturers are necessarily consistent from brand to brand with their numbering systems. It's not surprising that cross-referencing the PZ 19 produced a filter that fit also. It should do that.
It does not appear that Chrysler changed the filter specification from year to year. Were you able to get the engine identification number? If you can get that complete number the dealer can probably verify that it belongs to your VIN.

 

No problem, I appreciate all the help. I couldn't find the engine number on the block or heads. Ran the VIN# and all matched with what the title says. Called the local Chrysler dealer they couldn't help. I guess if the filter I have works all should be good. The coolant air bleeder that I ordered came in today and it looks like it's the right part, won't know until I take it apart. Just knowing that these cars had some cooling and sludging issues I thought maybe it had a different engine put in it. engine runs good and is strong so we'll see what happens down the road. Thanks again

 

There are several threads on the forum here about replacing the coolant outlet manifold (bleeder as you call it). Search them out and read through them. You do NOT need to remove or loosen the upper intake manifold to replace that part, provided you have the correct tool.
Use the search term "gear wrench" to find a long discussion.

The best guy to talk to at the dealer is the guy behind the parts counter. Get to know him. Bring a box of donuts. Forget the telephone. The parts guy can look up your VIN and tell you lots of good stuff.

 

Thanks again for the advice and info, talked to the guy I bought it from today he said car had 40,000 mi when he got it, and other than normal maintenance and replacing a ball joint and tie rod end never had any problems. It now has 89,000 and seems like a strong engine. Along with the coolant air bleeder, going to change the plugs this weekend, hopefully that goes better than the oil filter did. Thanks again

 

There's discussion here about changing the plugs, too. The front plugs are easy. To pull the rear plugs, use a 3/8ths ratchet with a short extension, a u-joint, another short extension, and the socket (in that order). Pull the rubber edge guard off the cowl to give yourself a little extra room, and you'll be able to "roll" the socket contraption down into the hole to reach the plug.
When removing plugs fom aluminum heads, it's a good idea to just break them loose, then run them back in to hopefully knock off any carbon build-up from the threads. If you encounter resistance when threading them out, run them back in for the same reason. You don't want to try to drag a chunk of carbon through the threads or you'll risk damaging them.
Don't gap platinum plugs. They come gapped from the factory and a gapping tool can damage the platinum coating on the electrodes.

Have fun with it. Come back and tell us how it all went.