Not getting fuel
#1
12-09-2010, 08:26 PM
Not getting fuel
2001 Sebring 2.7 transverse V6 MPFI DIS 115,000 mi.
I was driving about 60 mph, slowing for red light. I felt a roughness like it was going to die, light turned green before I came to a stop and accelerated fine up to 50 mph. Next light same thing, as I turned left it died and would not restart. Towed it home. Fuel gauge read 1/2 tank. I checked all the fuses and they were good. when turning key on I could hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec then turn off. while cranking it acted like it wanted to start for a second then just cranked. turning off the key then on to crank and it tried to catch for a second then just cranking. I removed the intake boot from the throttle body and sprayed some carb spray inside and cranked again. It almost started so I assumed no fuel and that there was spark. I also check the spark plugs and they were ok and gapped to.050 I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and cranked it. no fuel came out so I felt confident the fuel pump gave up the ghost. I replaced the fuel pump assembly in the tank ($240 ouch) assembled everything and still no start. I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and still no fuel. WTF I thought there might be another filter somewhere or a blockage in the line so I re-inspected the line again. What I found is a check valve in the end of the flexible fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. when you remove the line it springs closed to prevent fuel leakage I assume. I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the fuel pump. So It has fuel pressure now and probably did before. I checked for power to one injector and it’s there with key on. I also pulled the upper intake manifold while looking for any hidden fuel filters and was able to look into the intake ports to verify the valves were opening and closing. I have been out of the auto business since 2000 and I am a little rusty. I don’t have a scan tool and want to see if the injectors are pulsing with a test light. Is this possible without causing damage? I would appreciate any other suggestions.
I was driving about 60 mph, slowing for red light. I felt a roughness like it was going to die, light turned green before I came to a stop and accelerated fine up to 50 mph. Next light same thing, as I turned left it died and would not restart. Towed it home. Fuel gauge read 1/2 tank. I checked all the fuses and they were good. when turning key on I could hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec then turn off. while cranking it acted like it wanted to start for a second then just cranked. turning off the key then on to crank and it tried to catch for a second then just cranking. I removed the intake boot from the throttle body and sprayed some carb spray inside and cranked again. It almost started so I assumed no fuel and that there was spark. I also check the spark plugs and they were ok and gapped to.050 I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and cranked it. no fuel came out so I felt confident the fuel pump gave up the ghost. I replaced the fuel pump assembly in the tank ($240 ouch) assembled everything and still no start. I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and still no fuel. WTF I thought there might be another filter somewhere or a blockage in the line so I re-inspected the line again. What I found is a check valve in the end of the flexible fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. when you remove the line it springs closed to prevent fuel leakage I assume. I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the fuel pump. So It has fuel pressure now and probably did before. I checked for power to one injector and it’s there with key on. I also pulled the upper intake manifold while looking for any hidden fuel filters and was able to look into the intake ports to verify the valves were opening and closing. I have been out of the auto business since 2000 and I am a little rusty. I don’t have a scan tool and want to see if the injectors are pulsing with a test light. Is this possible without causing damage? I would appreciate any other suggestions.
#3
12-23-2010, 06:36 PM
First off....
NEVER ,EVER, Unnder any circumstances, use a 12 volt "BULB" tester on computer circuits......The impedance is not high enough , and will likely burn the drivers in the pcm.
Next, your injectors, fuel pump and ignition coils are fed voltage by a relay ..Named "ASD" (Auto shutdown). Ensure there is voltage at all three of these components while an asisstant "Cranks" the car. Voltage SHOULD NOT BE PRESENT WITH KEY IN THE ON POSITION UNTIL AFTER THE CAR IS RUNNING, and PCM sees an rpm signal.
Cycle the ignition key three times in 5 seconds.....on-off-on-off-on....and post back the "P-number" that shows up in the odometer window....
If you have a tach....(Im pretty sure most of them did) you should see a "Flutter" in the needle while cranking the car...do you???
NEVER ,EVER, Unnder any circumstances, use a 12 volt "BULB" tester on computer circuits......The impedance is not high enough , and will likely burn the drivers in the pcm.
Next, your injectors, fuel pump and ignition coils are fed voltage by a relay ..Named "ASD" (Auto shutdown). Ensure there is voltage at all three of these components while an asisstant "Cranks" the car. Voltage SHOULD NOT BE PRESENT WITH KEY IN THE ON POSITION UNTIL AFTER THE CAR IS RUNNING, and PCM sees an rpm signal.
Cycle the ignition key three times in 5 seconds.....on-off-on-off-on....and post back the "P-number" that shows up in the odometer window....
If you have a tach....(Im pretty sure most of them did) you should see a "Flutter" in the needle while cranking the car...do you???
#4
12-28-2010, 01:29 AM
ok i have basicaly the same problem that is described here with a 03 4 cylinder sebring if youfound the problem and solution out keep me informed?
and his fluttering rmps is what is happening to mine also
and his fluttering rmps is what is happening to mine also
#5
01-02-2011, 02:42 PM
fuel pump
Look up fuel pump in thread, I had same problem with blwon fuel pump in 2006 2.7 sebring. The filter is built into the fuel pump on mine. You have to KEEP cranking to get the fuel pressure up. Prepare for battery jump/recharge. A Scan tool can also be used to pressurise the system after f pump install if you want.
Good luck
Gus
Good luck
Gus
2001 Sebring 2.7 transverse V6 MPFI DIS 115,000 mi.
I was drivingout 60 mph, slowing for red light. I felt a roughness like it was going to die, light turned green before I came to a stop and accelerated fine up to 50 mph. Next light same thing, as I turned left it died and would not restart. Towed it home. Fuel gauge read 1/2 tank. I checked all the fuses and they were good. when turning key on I could hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec then turn off. while cranking it acted like it wanted to start for a second then just cranked. turning off the key then on to crank and it tried to catch for a second then just cranking. I removed the intake boot from the throttle body and sprayed some carb spray inside and cranked again. It almost started so I assumed no fuel and that there was spark. I also check the spark plugs and they were ok and gapped to.050 I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and cranked it. no fuel came out so I felt confident the fuel pump gave up the ghost. I replaced the fuel pump assembly in the tank ($240 ouch) assembled everything and still no start. I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and still no fuel. WTF I thought there might be another filter somewhere or a blockage in the line so I re-inspected the line again. What I found is a check valve in the end of the flexible fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. when you remove the line it springs closed to prevent fuel leakage I assume. I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the fuel pump. So It has fuel pressure now and probably did before. I checked for power to one injector and it’s there with key on. I also pulled the upper intake manifold while looking for any hidden fuel filters and was able to look into the intake ports to verify the valves were opening and closing. I have been out of the auto business since 2000 and I am a little rusty. I don’t have a scan tool and want to see if the injectors are pulsing with a test light. Is this possible without causing damage? I would appreciate any other suggestions.
I was drivingout 60 mph, slowing for red light. I felt a roughness like it was going to die, light turned green before I came to a stop and accelerated fine up to 50 mph. Next light same thing, as I turned left it died and would not restart. Towed it home. Fuel gauge read 1/2 tank. I checked all the fuses and they were good. when turning key on I could hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec then turn off. while cranking it acted like it wanted to start for a second then just cranked. turning off the key then on to crank and it tried to catch for a second then just cranking. I removed the intake boot from the throttle body and sprayed some carb spray inside and cranked again. It almost started so I assumed no fuel and that there was spark. I also check the spark plugs and they were ok and gapped to.050 I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and cranked it. no fuel came out so I felt confident the fuel pump gave up the ghost. I replaced the fuel pump assembly in the tank ($240 ouch) assembled everything and still no start. I pulled the fuel line from the injector rail and still no fuel. WTF I thought there might be another filter somewhere or a blockage in the line so I re-inspected the line again. What I found is a check valve in the end of the flexible fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. when you remove the line it springs closed to prevent fuel leakage I assume. I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the fuel pump. So It has fuel pressure now and probably did before. I checked for power to one injector and it’s there with key on. I also pulled the upper intake manifold while looking for any hidden fuel filters and was able to look into the intake ports to verify the valves were opening and closing. I have been out of the auto business since 2000 and I am a little rusty. I don’t have a scan tool and want to see if the injectors are pulsing with a test light. Is this possible without causing damage? I would appreciate any other suggestions.
#6
01-06-2011, 06:06 PM
Ok Im back. the following codes were output:
p0123,p0622,p1193.p1282,p1389,p1489, keep in mind I had the upper intake manifold off to inspect further and this required disconecting several components. I mentioned that in my original post. The RPM's do fluctuate on the tack while cranking. I have no assistants to crank while I check for voltages. how can I clear the codes so I can recheck? I have located an assistant for tonight and will report back on the " voltage only during cranking question".
p0123,p0622,p1193.p1282,p1389,p1489, keep in mind I had the upper intake manifold off to inspect further and this required disconecting several components. I mentioned that in my original post. The RPM's do fluctuate on the tack while cranking. I have no assistants to crank while I check for voltages. how can I clear the codes so I can recheck? I have located an assistant for tonight and will report back on the " voltage only during cranking question".
#7
01-06-2011, 08:13 PM
P0123: Throttle position sensor voltage too high
P0622: Generator field not switching properly
P1193: Inlet air temp circuit high
P1282: Fuel pump relay control circuit
P1389: No ASD relay voltage output at PCM
P1489: High speed fan control relay circuit.
The codes will clear themselves if the underlying fault is corrected. To manually clear the codes, you'll need a scanner with that capability.
P0622: Generator field not switching properly
P1193: Inlet air temp circuit high
P1282: Fuel pump relay control circuit
P1389: No ASD relay voltage output at PCM
P1489: High speed fan control relay circuit.
The codes will clear themselves if the underlying fault is corrected. To manually clear the codes, you'll need a scanner with that capability.
#8
01-07-2011, 11:44 AM
Ok so i disconnected the battery and all the codes are gone except 1684, which makes sence. I here the fuel pump run when the key is turned to on, the car runs for a second if i pour a few drops of gas in the intake manifold through a removed vacume hose so.... this tells me the coils and fuel pump have voltage and are operating. so your question is answered djinn n tonic.
Next, your injectors, fuel pump and ignition coils are fed voltage by a relay ..Named "ASD" (Auto shutdown). Ensure there is voltage at all three of these components while an asisstant "Cranks" the car. Voltage SHOULD NOT BE PRESENT WITH KEY IN THE ON POSITION UNTIL AFTER THE CAR IS RUNNING, and PCM sees an rpm signal. Is there a procedure to check the cam timming without tearing the engine down. I would like to verify that is correct before going deeper. wouldnt the pcm see if the cams are out of sync with the crank.
Next, your injectors, fuel pump and ignition coils are fed voltage by a relay ..Named "ASD" (Auto shutdown). Ensure there is voltage at all three of these components while an asisstant "Cranks" the car. Voltage SHOULD NOT BE PRESENT WITH KEY IN THE ON POSITION UNTIL AFTER THE CAR IS RUNNING, and PCM sees an rpm signal. Is there a procedure to check the cam timming without tearing the engine down. I would like to verify that is correct before going deeper. wouldnt the pcm see if the cams are out of sync with the crank.
#9
01-18-2011, 02:47 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XH8P_JeEbo
This is a video of the nostart condition. What can cause the injectors not to pulse besides a bad PCM. Note the ASD relay is closing and supplying power to the injectors.
This is a video of the nostart condition. What can cause the injectors not to pulse besides a bad PCM. Note the ASD relay is closing and supplying power to the injectors.
#10
01-18-2011, 06:06 PM
u have a power to the fuel pump issue if u pull the fuel line off and try and crank it there is no gas correct? u also confirmed it while in your video the low fuel light came on and U know u had gas or for **** and giggles add 5 gal to it