does anyone know of a tool to hold camshaft gears in place when removing timing belt on 3.5l. I have heard of a cam lockdown tool. I did speak with a dealer yesterday and it said nothing about removing valve covers and loosening rocker arms when removing a timing belt on a 3.5l pacifica. service guy read whole procedure to me, and it sounded like it should, just for everyones info.

 

who ever talked to must not have been looking correctly this is from the web page of chrysler same stuff that the manuals have


REMOVAL - TIMING BELT TIMING VERIFICATION Remove the outer timing covers. Rotate the crankshaft until the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket aligns the TDC mark on the oil pump. Check to determine if the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the marks on the inner timing cover. It may take an additional full revolution of the crankshaft before the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned (TIMING GEAR MARKS). CAUTION: The 3.5L is NOT a freewheeling engine. Therefore, loosen the valve train rocker assemblies before servicing the timing drive. [ol][*]Perform fuel pressure release procedure. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).[*]Disconnect negative battery cable.[*]Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen the rocker arm assemblies.[*]Remove the front timing belt cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).[*]Mark belt running direction, if timing belt is to be reused. CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.[*]Rotate engine clockwise until crankshaft mark aligns with the TDC mark on oil pump housing and the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the marks on the rear cover (TIMING GEAR MARKS)[*]Remove the timing belt tensioner (TIMING GEAR MARKS) and remove timing belt.[*]Inspect the tensioner for fluid leakage.[*]Inspect the pivot and bolt for free movement, bearing grease leakage, and smooth rotation. If not rotating freely, replace the arm and pulley assembly.[*]When tensioner is removed from the engine it is necessary to compress the plunger into the tensioner body. CAUTION: Index the tensioner in the vise the same way it is installed on the engine. This ensures proper pin orientation when tensioner is installed on the engine.[*]Place the tensioner into a vise and SLOWLY compress the plunger (Compressing Timing Belt Tensioner). Total bleed down of tensioner should take about 5 minutes.[*]When plunger is compressed into the tensioner body install a pin through the body and plunger to retain plunger in place until tensioner is installed[/ol][/ol]

 

No need to lock the cams on the Pacs 3.5l. Just line up the timing marks and you are good to go.

 

Jamie1, do you agree you should not have to remove valve covers and loosen rocker arms. I am getting different opinions. Chryslertech, I have talked to you on a different website and you said you have not done a timing belt yet on that engine. I sure wish I could here from someone who has done this, or could explain why you have to do that step, before I attack this.

 

I have been a Chrysler tech for 20 years now. I have NEVER loosened the rockers on ANY non-freewheeling engine to do a timing belt. And yes I have done a few timing belts on this engine. It is/was used in the 98 and up LH cars,the LX cars and the Pac. So that is a lot of cars with this engine. To be honest,I can say I have never seen anybody loosen the rockers to do the timing belt.

 

I am in agreeance, wonder why that step is in the manual. It is definitely there.

 

how about this do the job and if it comes down to it do as instructions say if u can get around it pass the info on no need in bickering back and forth u have the instructions knock it out.

 

tool looks like it goes on the cam shaft,thats why cove needs to be removed i show the locking tool next insert.moe

 

heres what tool looks like,

 

Moe,that tool is a cam shaft "alignment" tool. Not really needed for the Pac 3.5L as the cam and sprocket is doweled or keyed. Remember the older 3.5L had that "D" slot in the sprocket that allowed it to move on the cam a few degrees. Kind of a stupid design IMO. I think the kind of camshaft holder that gbeach is thinking about is for the engines that are DOHC.