See I am doing Mobile1, I had to go to Iffy Lube and that $72 oil change for that, but they still put the 3000 mile interval sticker on there, i usually do it every 5k just because its 98% Highway driving. I have no problem putting money in for maintenance as long as I can justify it,lol So maybe there will be a big blower engine,lol. need to get to work faster,lol.

 

$72!?!?!?!??!?! You can buy Mobile1 at the auto parts store for 3-4 bucks a quart, then the specific oil filter the car calls for, for 8-10 bucks. In the end, you save yourself 30-50 bucks depending if anything is on sale!

OMG i still can't believe you paid that. Sorry, but you got boned!

 

listen to Jamie1's advice. He knows what he is talking about.

 

trust me i didnt want to pay that but i wasn't anywhere were I can do my own. Hey at least they waashed my windows for 50 buks,lol

 

Have to agree with jamie1 on this one. Think about it. More air going in=less dirt filtered out. I too have seen many engines damaged as a direct result of a K&N filter. The drop in type seem to be the worst. Many times I have seen dirt just pulled right past the seal. Hey you are free to use a K&N,more money for me when the engine fails. Believe me K&N will not be rushing to pay for an engine repair. Back to your original question. Did this noise happen right after the oil was changed? Does it go away? A poor filter should not cause a knock,put more of a tick as the lifters starve for oil. If you are actually hearing a knock[a knock caused by poor lubrcation] then the damage is already done. The 3.5L is a pretty strong engine. In my 15+ years with Chrysler,I have only seen one major failure with a 3.5L. A main bearing failed and took out the block. Warrenty paid. Cause was never found.

 

I think bobtheoilguy.com or whatever did some basic testing on air filters
K&N lets in more air and more dirt.
But the more air/power really only occurs at very high RPM as already mentioned.
Cellulose fibers (paper) are a very good and cheap filter.
If you want more power at high RPM then you should maintain your air filters filtering abilities which would almost certainly mean you need more surface area (AKA bigger filter).
Mobil 1 0w-40 might have been the last widely available motor oil in the US that was group IV synthetic (means actually synthetic), but I cannot be sure. Mobil 1 will not say. They claim it meets "synthetic" specs or some BS.
It has seemed to changed over the past few years though because now you get 5 quart jugs instead of 4 and it's about $5 cheaper.
Castrol 0W-30 was also one of the last possible group IV synthetic based oils.