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  #1  
Old 11-25-2011, 09:20 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Default Front end rattling/clunking over bumps at slow speeds

I posted about this before and some people mentioned changing my sway bar end links. The end links were bad and I replaced them but I still get a clunking/rattling noise when going over small bumps. I didn't replace the rubber bumpers on the sway bar.
Does anyone have a clue what it might be? I know the struts were replaced right before I bought it so could it be something to do with the installation of them?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2011, 04:41 PM
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The plastic fender inserts on mine did not have the plastic push pins holding them securely. That seemed to fix my low speed clunk sound.

I had clicking as well when turning the wheel and applying throttle. Replaced both front axles and gaskets that go on the face of the axle shafts.

The factory struts on mine were also making a clunk sound at low speeds. Both factory struts at 80k could be pushed in with almost no force and would never rebound. My Pac has bounced since 30k and I always thought it was just heavy in the front end. I think the struts had failed long ago.

I've also replaced the sway bar links, tie rod ends and lower control arms but the last of the noise in the front end came down to those fasteners missing to hold the plastic liners inside the wheel wells.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2011, 06:16 PM
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Did your clunk sound like it was coming from the suspension or Could you tell that it was just plastic rattling around? The reason I ask is because the clunk just seems too solid to be a measly plastic fender well. Mine is a little loose though.
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2011, 07:54 PM
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If it's a solid clunk I think the swaybar links and bushings are probably your best bet. I've also read online in a few forums to check the torque on the lower control arms and even the frame/body bolts.

It's taken me about 2 years to rid myself of all the clicks, clunks and rattles but I finally have a Pac that feels solid so it can be done. I replace every front end part in my garage in including the motor mounts which failed at 50k.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2012, 09:24 AM
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i am new here and i was jsut wondering if it would be more common to have the sway bar end links and bushings go bad then the control arm bushings i think my front lower rear bushings are getting bad but i will check the end links when the wife gets home thanks
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter9780 View Post
i am new here and i was jsut wondering if it would be more common to have the sway bar end links and bushings go bad then the control arm bushings i think my front lower rear bushings are getting bad but i will check the end links when the wife gets home thanks
I replaced both control arms and sway bar end links around 50k. I'm not sure if it was just my Pacifica but with the exception of inner tie rods I've replaced every suspension and front end part there is and I actually like the vehicle quite a bit. I now have 84k on my Pacifica and plan on driving this until it stops. Since approx 19k it has made all sorts or creaks, clicks and pops. After replacing just about everything in the front end including both axles and struts it's quiet again. The front factory struts had failed around 20k - 30k miles.

Short answer is I don't think any one part fails before the other on these. They all end up needing replacing, at least on mine, around 30k -50k.

Remarkably if you check the oil in the 3.5l it is a pretty solid motor. My runs and idles like a watch at 84k.
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Last edited by Sierra8; 01-08-2012 at 11:19 AM.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2012, 08:26 PM
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yeah we have 112k on ours and i just replaced the outer tie rods and now and going to buy the bushings for the control arms and then we will see if the sway bar bushings need to be replaced thanks for the tips and must be your 3.5 uses a little oil also
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2012, 04:23 PM
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Ok, so using the info provided in another thread I was able to source aftermarket polyurethane bushings made by Energy Suspension. These are not direct fit but they bolt on with the new brackets that are included with the kit.

The part number is 9.5169R. the bracket needs a slight modification, I cut one one of the bolt slots straight through to match how the factory bracket was. This makes it easier for install and to make sure the bolts are straight for the reinstall. You do not want to cross thread the nut in the engine cradle, the slots on the new bracket are right at the limit of the bolt holes. Also you will need to put something around the stabilizer bar to keep it from moving as the new bushings are narrower. I used industrial zip ties.

Any questions just post back, I am subscribed to is thread and get an email when there is a post.

The car handles like it is on rails now. no waddling going down the road or clunking.

It took me 2.5 hours, and I did not unbolt the rack or end links. All work was done thru the respective wheel well with jack stands.


Jay
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2012, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karfreek View Post
Ok, so using the info provided in another thread I was able to source aftermarket polyurethane bushings made by Energy Suspension. These are not direct fit but they bolt on with the new brackets that are included with the kit.

The part number is 9.5169R. the bracket needs a slight modification, I cut one one of the bolt slots straight through to match how the factory bracket was. This makes it easier for install and to make sure the bolts are straight for the reinstall. You do not want to cross thread the nut in the engine cradle, the slots on the new bracket are right at the limit of the bolt holes. Also you will need to put something around the stabilizer bar to keep it from moving as the new bushings are narrower. I used industrial zip ties.

Any questions just post back, I am subscribed to is thread and get an email when there is a post.

The car handles like it is on rails now. no waddling going down the road or clunking.

It took me 2.5 hours, and I did not unbolt the rack or end links. All work was done thru the respective wheel well with jack stands.


Jay
Did you take any pictures of how the whole thing looked once the industrial zip ties were in place and all? Thanks in advance. I'd like to do the same to my '04 Pacifica, the front end wobbles like mad.
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  #10  
Old 02-07-2012, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leoneldelarosa View Post
Did you take any pictures of how the whole thing looked once the industrial zip ties were in place and all? Thanks in advance. I'd like to do the same to my '04 Pacifica, the front end wobbles like mad.
I did take pics, but not with the zip ties. I can send them to you if you give me ur email address. With the zip ties, center the bar (use the clearance between the control arm and stabilizer bar as your guide) and then put the zip tie around the bar as tight as you can next to the bushing on the outboard side (wheel side of the bushing). Do this on both sides.

Jay
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:11 AM
 
 
 
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bar, bumps, charger, chrysler, clunk, clunking, dodg, end, front, holes, links, pacifica, pot, rattle, sway

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