how to change transmision oil by myself?
#3
Hi,
I have yet to drop my pan as I have not wanted to deal with the RTV - why didn't they use a gasket? Anyway, I don't think it is a big deal as I have done rear differentials using RTV and it is not terribly difficult.
As an option however I can suggest a different technique that I use on my vehicles in between/before I drop the pan for filter change. I use a fluid transfer pump with extra tubing that I bought at Home Depot. I run a tube down the filler neck/dipstick line and into the pan. Then I pump as much fluid as it will pull out into an empty 5 Qt. oil jug so I can measure how much I get. Then I refill as necessary. Over time you will change out most of the fluid. It seems I got around 4 QTs out using this method last time and I think the total capacity is on the order of 10-12. By the way, I don't think you would get much more out by dropping the pan, but you would get a filter change and the opportunity to clean the pan/magnet. Here is a link to show the kind of pump I use. I have seen similar at Autozone I think as they are designed to go onto a qt. or gallon container.
Good Luck. And be sure to buy the right fluid - Should be ATF+4.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx
I have yet to drop my pan as I have not wanted to deal with the RTV - why didn't they use a gasket? Anyway, I don't think it is a big deal as I have done rear differentials using RTV and it is not terribly difficult.
As an option however I can suggest a different technique that I use on my vehicles in between/before I drop the pan for filter change. I use a fluid transfer pump with extra tubing that I bought at Home Depot. I run a tube down the filler neck/dipstick line and into the pan. Then I pump as much fluid as it will pull out into an empty 5 Qt. oil jug so I can measure how much I get. Then I refill as necessary. Over time you will change out most of the fluid. It seems I got around 4 QTs out using this method last time and I think the total capacity is on the order of 10-12. By the way, I don't think you would get much more out by dropping the pan, but you would get a filter change and the opportunity to clean the pan/magnet. Here is a link to show the kind of pump I use. I have seen similar at Autozone I think as they are designed to go onto a qt. or gallon container.
Good Luck. And be sure to buy the right fluid - Should be ATF+4.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx
#4
This is the best way to change ATF:
1. Before loosening bolts, place a container to collect the fluid under the transmission.
2. Loosen transmission pan by unscrewing the bolts. Loosen one corner more than others.
3. Slide a thin putty knife between the bolts and use it to break the contact between the pan and the transmission housing. Start at the low end and work your way around. When the pan breaks free, the bolts will hold it up.
4. Place one hand under the pan to hold it up and remove the bolts. Dump the remaining fluid into the container.
5. Clean the magnet and the pan.
6. Carefully remove gasket material from pan and the bottom of the housing as to not damage the sealing surfaces.
7. Change the filter and O-ring seal.
8. Verify the oil pan is clean, dry and the magnet is in place. Lay the silicon sealant on the oil pan sealing surface.
9. Attach pan. Start the corner bolts, then insert the remaining bolts. This ensures all of the holes are aligned before beginning tightening.
10. Tighten the bolts.
11. Fill 4-5 quarts of automatic transmission fluid (you will need a funnel).
12. Disconnect the return transmission cooler line (upper one) and attach to it 1,5-2 metre lenght transparent hose.
13. Get into the car. Keep firmly the hose in hand and place the end of it into container.
Now you will need a helper.
14. Turn on the vehicle and let it idle. At the same time helper should begin to fill ATF.
15. Watch the flow of the ATF. At first quiet ATF will drain out. Later you will see bright one.
16. At this moment turn off the vehicle and reconnect the line to the transmission.
17. Check the level of ATF and add if necessary.
1. Before loosening bolts, place a container to collect the fluid under the transmission.
2. Loosen transmission pan by unscrewing the bolts. Loosen one corner more than others.
3. Slide a thin putty knife between the bolts and use it to break the contact between the pan and the transmission housing. Start at the low end and work your way around. When the pan breaks free, the bolts will hold it up.
4. Place one hand under the pan to hold it up and remove the bolts. Dump the remaining fluid into the container.
5. Clean the magnet and the pan.
6. Carefully remove gasket material from pan and the bottom of the housing as to not damage the sealing surfaces.
7. Change the filter and O-ring seal.
8. Verify the oil pan is clean, dry and the magnet is in place. Lay the silicon sealant on the oil pan sealing surface.
9. Attach pan. Start the corner bolts, then insert the remaining bolts. This ensures all of the holes are aligned before beginning tightening.
10. Tighten the bolts.
11. Fill 4-5 quarts of automatic transmission fluid (you will need a funnel).
12. Disconnect the return transmission cooler line (upper one) and attach to it 1,5-2 metre lenght transparent hose.
13. Get into the car. Keep firmly the hose in hand and place the end of it into container.
Now you will need a helper.
14. Turn on the vehicle and let it idle. At the same time helper should begin to fill ATF.
15. Watch the flow of the ATF. At first quiet ATF will drain out. Later you will see bright one.
16. At this moment turn off the vehicle and reconnect the line to the transmission.
17. Check the level of ATF and add if necessary.
Last edited by Virglijus; 08-28-2009 at 07:02 AM.
#5
The filter is more critical to change than the fluid. Of course, the only way to get to the filter is by draining the fluid...so you'll end up doing it all anyway.
You don't change your engine oil and not the filter...the same rule applies to the transmission. If the filter is dirty/plugged, then the fluid isn't able to be pumped through the transmission adequately. The filter and the extra work is far cheaper and easier than having to have the tranny rebuilt!
You don't change your engine oil and not the filter...the same rule applies to the transmission. If the filter is dirty/plugged, then the fluid isn't able to be pumped through the transmission adequately. The filter and the extra work is far cheaper and easier than having to have the tranny rebuilt!
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