Pacifica 2005 3.5 U110C U0140 U0155
#1
05-31-2014, 01:03 PM
Pacifica 2005 3.5 U110C U0140 U0155
My 2005 Limited Edition Pacifica has shown the following codes all at once. U110C, U0140, U0155 which I think indicate a computer problem. When the codes come up most electronics fail. Windows, Radio, AC/Fan, Sun Roof, etc. If the car is already in drive you can drive but the RPMs and Speedometer bounces around abnormally. If you stop and put the car in park you can not get it out of park again. If you turn off the car and restart it most of the time the idiot lights stay on and the car will not allow you to put it into drive. If you let the car sit turned off for about 30 minute to an hour you can usually get the car to start and get it back in drive again but the codes usually come back within 30 minutes or less with the same symptoms. The car had a new alternator put on about two weeks before the issue came up in case that was a concern. Looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance.
#2
06-01-2014, 12:00 AM
they are all communication error codes from one computer to the other will need to let some one with experience look at this
#3
06-03-2014, 07:23 PM
I'm having almost identical issues with my 05 3.5 also. If you get it fixed can you post back as to what was found? I'm still trying to avoid taking mine to a shop.
#4
05-27-2017, 11:35 AM
Same issues looking for help
[QUOTE=webnet;79812]My 2005 Limited Edition Pacifica has shown the following codes all at once. U110C, U0140, U0155 which I think indicate a computer problem. When the codes come up most electronics fail. Windows, Radio, AC/Fan, Sun Roof, etc. If the car is already in drive you can drive but the RPMs and Speedometer bounces around abnormally. If you stop and put the car in park you can not get it out of park again. If you turn off the car and restart it most of the time the idiot lights stay on and the car will not allow you to put it into drive. If you let the car sit turned off for about 30 minute to an hour you can usually get the car to start and get it back in drive again but the codes usually come back within 30 minutes or less with the same symptoms. The car had a new alternator put on about two weeks before the issue came up in case that was a concern. Looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance.
#5
10-16-2018, 08:08 PM
We are on the edges of our seats waiting to hear what worked
So I was tracing some bad grounds( they’re under your battery
and sent current from a continuity tester or it might’ve been some water got under the hood but either way same problem now exists for me, even bought a parts car! replaced the T.IPM, not it, computer is next! Called the dealer today they said that would never work but I told them it will because I have the key to the car in the Fob is easily swapped. I guess the reflash is only 115, a.k.a. an hour of shop time, but I do things the hard way
and sent current from a continuity tester or it might’ve been some water got under the hood but either way same problem now exists for me, even bought a parts car! replaced the T.IPM, not it, computer is next! Called the dealer today they said that would never work but I told them it will because I have the key to the car in the Fob is easily swapped. I guess the reflash is only 115, a.k.a. an hour of shop time, but I do things the hard way
#6
10-16-2018, 09:14 PM
So I was tracing some bad grounds( they’re under your battery and sent current from a continuity tester or it might’ve been some water got under the hood but either way same problem now exists for me, even bought a parts car! replaced the T.IPM, not it, computer is next! Called the dealer today they said that would never work but I told them it will because I have the key to the car in the Fob is easily swapped. I guess the reflash is only 115, a.k.a. an hour of shop time, but I do things the hard way
and sent current from a continuity tester or it might’ve been some water got under the hood but either way same problem now exists for me, even bought a parts car! replaced the T.IPM, not it, computer is next! Called the dealer today they said that would never work but I told them it will because I have the key to the car in the Fob is easily swapped. I guess the reflash is only 115, a.k.a. an hour of shop time, but I do things the hard wayEverything you're doing I tried and it all failed. It ended up being the main wire under the fuse box. Took it to Chrysler cost me $150.
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