Pacifica P0700, P0720 - tricky issue resolved
#21
12-10-2013, 07:44 AM
In responce to pacifica`s burning the oil? not so please read
In responce to this my 2005 pacifica was also (so called burning the oil) so i thought but after checking this i looked around the oil pan and found the oil plug to be the total fault here.
Now have a look at your oil plug (next change up) the bolt itself! it should hae a orange or red rubber seal on it if not this is your total problem it wears out fast on these cars.
Mine was completely worn off on the one side (replaced it 1 month ago and no more oil clearly this was my problem.
Hope this helps but i guess oil was just blowing with the wind when it was leaking past this rubber because i couldnt see any oil around the plug really but once i took off the bolt there was the problem
thanks guys
I have become quite the expert in these pacificas if you need more help on these let me know right from trouble codes that arent even a part of the pacificas to items on the fuel tanks (saddle bags) most have problems that techs say needs sec or fuel pump replace when in fact it is nothing more than a small filter that can be used and your gas guage will be perfectly fine.
anyway take care and thanks (newbie here)
with well over 30 years exp with dodge and chrysler problems
~Dave
Now have a look at your oil plug (next change up) the bolt itself! it should hae a orange or red rubber seal on it if not this is your total problem it wears out fast on these cars.
Mine was completely worn off on the one side (replaced it 1 month ago and no more oil clearly this was my problem.
Hope this helps but i guess oil was just blowing with the wind when it was leaking past this rubber because i couldnt see any oil around the plug really but once i took off the bolt there was the problem
thanks guys
I have become quite the expert in these pacificas if you need more help on these let me know right from trouble codes that arent even a part of the pacificas to items on the fuel tanks (saddle bags) most have problems that techs say needs sec or fuel pump replace when in fact it is nothing more than a small filter that can be used and your gas guage will be perfectly fine.
anyway take care and thanks (newbie here)
with well over 30 years exp with dodge and chrysler problems
~Dave
#22
12-12-2013, 10:07 AM
Would you mind sharing your fuel gauge solution here, may in a separate thread.
#23
01-07-2014, 05:00 PM
I am experiencing a surge of the speedometer while card is idle or in park. When stopping I was feeling a thud. It was because of the surge with the speedometer the transmission was shifting into 2nd gear causing the motor mount to break. Check engine light on. I was throwing code P0700 and P0720 on my 06 pacifica naturally we replaced both speed sensors.
However, the problem did not go away. After reading the forum I had my alternator tested. It was not giving enough voltage.
Replaced alternator and now there is no surge. Car shifts normally. Just need to do the motor mount.
However, the problem did not go away. After reading the forum I had my alternator tested. It was not giving enough voltage.
Replaced alternator and now there is no surge. Car shifts normally. Just need to do the motor mount.
#24
04-21-2014, 01:32 AM
I bought my 06 Pacifica touring with 29K on it. It's been using oil since I bought it, but nowhere near a quart every 500mi. It's more like 1/2 quart every 1000 miles. I use only 10W30 full synthetic oil, and I also use Lucas upper cylnder lubricant in the gas. I don't get any gunk in the throttle body either. Yes, it does get dirty but not to the point where it's building up. My Pac now has 146 K on it and still running great, however I am now getting the P0700/P0720 codes. Looks like the alternator is finally crapping out, at least I hope it's the alternator. I'll add to the number of happy customers once I confirm this. Man, this forum is one of the best tools in my tool box for sure. It should be a requirement for ALL Chrysler tech's to read these forum posts every 6 months or so!!!
#25
06-12-2014, 03:33 AM
Travis, just wanted to say thank you for your post, my wife's Chrysler Sebring was doing the same thing and showing the same codes, I've never seen anything like this before. Immediately after reading your post, I pulled that alternator out and had it tested and what do you know, bad alternator, bought a new one, put it in and BOOM! Car runs like a champ. Thank you again!!
#26
06-30-2014, 06:39 PM
Jumpy Speedometer and 0770 and 0720 Codes
Travis, just wanted to say thank you for your post, my wife's Chrysler Sebring was doing the same thing and showing the same codes, I've never seen anything like this before. Immediately after reading your post, I pulled that alternator out and had it tested and what do you know, bad alternator, bought a new one, put it in and BOOM! Car runs like a champ. Thank you again!!
#27
07-05-2014, 03:38 PM
Thanks for the tips! Have you had any problems w/ belt squeal ? I've replaced the belt, a bad harmonic balancer and another belt ( after notcing the outer pulley on the balancer had shifted about 1/4 inch causing mis-alignment with the other pulleys. It was quiet for a few days, but now starting to squeal and the belt is beginning to shred
#28
07-11-2014, 08:22 PM
2006 pacifica AWD
I really wish that I would have searched the internet and found this forum a month ago. I was having this exact same problem and I just replaced the alternator today and guess what, the car runs great now. Thank you
It worked
#30
10-28-2014, 05:23 PM
Thank you very much!!!
Just posting this to share incase someone else has the same problem.
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...