Direct from the service manual:


Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it
can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle
such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not
permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition.
As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look
darker in color and may eventually become brown.
This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that
may change with age. Consequently, odor and color
cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition
or the need for a fluid change

 

Sounds total opposite of what the norm is.

 

Thanks for the info dude.

 

The 'norm' being what is touted by those who stand to make a $$$ by convincing you that it needs be changed!

I had the car in to a local shop for annual state inspection. As a 'courtesy' they do a 2billion point vehicle check. I was told that the tranny fluid needed to be changed because is was brown. For a mere $140 or so, they would use this jim-dandy system that would suck out the old fluid and replace it with new - right. They weren't even going to drop the pan to clean/change the filter screen.

I took a pass.

 

I just had my local dealer perform that total system flush on my '07 Pac. The only reason I didn't drop the pan myself was because of two things. I have a 17 month old girl who doesn't let me sit for a second, and because I couldn't get to some of the pan bolts. I guess that flush machine really cleans the pan and the filter. I've been putting off getting a new torque converter because of the cost and I'm hoping to get Chrysler to foot the bill. The new fluid helped some, but I still have a shudder. My dealer says that 60k is the max on tranny fluid, but everyone has there own opinion. Mine has 71k. And the cost for the flush, $159.99. Urgh.

 

New fluid could help that shudder. It might be slipping clutches due to old fluid. I have been going to the Valvoline Instant Oil Change in the neighborhood. They do that flush machine routine for about half that charge.
Transmission rebuild will cost you 10 times that.
Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.

 

No one is convincing me of anything. If people are getting ripped off, that is their fault for not reading their manual. When I say norm, I speak of past experience about color and smell. Also, what Chryslertech told you in the other forum... every car is different and oils break down over time, their shear properties change, etc. Also depends how you drive it as well. Vehicles I tow with get more frequent changes. I do my own service and keep an eye on these color and smell "indicators". Do you use this same philosophy on your motor oil?

I don't care what the manual says about color and odor. To me, maybe Chrysler wants us to come in with a blown transmission. To cover this, I buy the Chrysler extended warranties. Bottom line.. what ever color it is at 30k, or when ever the manual says to change it, that is when it gets changed. Since I depend on Chrysler warranties, I have to go by when they say to change it and maybe sooner if I don't like color and smell.

One thing we can agree on is how we don't like those darn sucking machines the replace your fluid.

 

looks like I get to jump in here to

Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter. 60K 96kilo meters
FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION CHECK
NOTE: Only transmission fluid of the type labeled Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) should be used in this transaxle.

FLUID LEVEL CHECK
The transmission sump has a fluid level indicator (dipstick) to check oil similar to most automatic transmissions. It is located on the left side of the engine. Be sure to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.

The torque converter fills in both the P Park and N Neutral positions. Place the selector lever in P Park to be sure that the fluid level check is accurate. The engine should be running at idle speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle on level ground. At normal operating temperature 82° C (180° F), the fluid level is correct if it is in the HOT region on the oil level indicator (Fluid Level Indicator). The fluid level should be within the COLD region of the dipstick at 27° C (80° F) fluid temperature.

FLUID LEVEL CHECK USING DRB
NOTE: Engine and Transaxle should be at normal operating temperature before performing this procedure.

Start engine and apply parking brake.
Hook up DRB scan tool and select transmission.
Select sensors.
Read the transmission temperature value.
Compare the fluid temperature value with the fluid temperature chart (Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart).
Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the indicator according to the chart.
Check transmission for leaks.
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions because it allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be low and build up slowly.

Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, the gears churn up foam and cause the same conditions which occur with a low fluid level.

In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transaxle vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.

FLUID CONDITION
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.

Mopar® ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.

After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.


STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID AND FILTER SERVICE
NOTE: Refer to the maintenance schedules in LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE, or the vehicle owner's manual, for the recommended maintenance (fluid/filter change) intervals for this transaxle.

NOTE: Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar® ATF+4 should be used. A filter change should be made at the time of the transmission oil change. The magnet (on the inside of the oil pan) should also be cleaned with a clean, dry cloth.

NOTE: If the transaxle is disassembled for any reason, the fluid and filter should be changed.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE (RECOMMENDED)
Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE for proper procedures. Place a drain container with a large opening, under transaxle oil pan.
Remove both engine mount-to-engine crossmember cradle nuts. Using suitable screw jack and wood block, raise engine and transmission slightly to facilitate transaxle oil pan removal and installation.
Loosen pan bolts and tap the pan at one corner to break it loose allowing fluid to drain, then remove the oil pan.
Install a new filter and o-ring on bottom of the valve body (Filter and O-Ring).
Clean the oil pan and magnet. Reinstall pan using new Mopar Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts to 19 N·m (165 in. lbs.).
Pour four quarts of Mopar® ATF+4 through the dipstick opening.
Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied, move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
Check the transaxle fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level to 3mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick (Fluid Level Indicator).
Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle has reached normal operating temperature (180°F.). Refer to Fluid Level and Condition Check for the proper fluid fill procedure.
To prevent dirt from entering transaxle, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick opening.
DIPSTICK TUBE FLUID SUCTION METHOD (ALTERNATIVE)
When performing the fluid suction method, make sure the transaxle is at full operating temperature.
To perform the dipstick tube fluid suction method, use a suitable fluid suction device (Vacula™ or equivalent).
Insert the fluid suction line into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: Verify that the suction line is inserted to the lowest point of the transaxle oil pan. This will ensure complete evacuation of the fluid in the pan.

Follow the manufacturers recommended procedure and evacuate the fluid from the transaxle.
Remove the suction line from the dipstick tube.
Pour four quarts of Mopar® ATF+4 through the dipstick opening.
Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied, move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
Check the transaxle fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level to 3mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick (Fluid Level Indicator).
Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle has reached normal operating temperature (180°F.). (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
To prevent dirt from entering transaxle, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick opening

 

When I changed the fluid and filter I noticed a grey grease like substance coating the magnet. It had a black tinge to it on top. What was it, was it supposed to be there and if not what is it a by product of and what could it mean? I'm getting a P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit A Malfuncion code now and am trying to sort that out to. Any suggestions?

 

The grey grease you are referring to is nothing more than tranny fluid and very small metal shavings. They mix together over many miles and the magnet holds the "mix" together in, what looks like, grease. Wipe down the magnet with shop towels, hose it off with brake or throttle body cleaner(use this to clean the pan also), and blow everything dry with an air gun. Replace the magnet and you are done.