Hi Guys,

I'm experiencing a loud squeak from the REAR driver side wheel. This squeak basically occurs any time the car is in motion (except when braking). I stuck my head under the rear of the car and noticed that one of the ball joints looks to be in pretty bad shape. This is probably what's making the noise, however I can't exactly identify what the part is. I'm thinking it may be a rear control arm, however when looking at several different auto part stores they didn't seem to sell a rear control arm for an 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. So maybe I'm completely wrong and it's something totally different, I'm hoping you guys will be able to help me identify it.


For the moment I won't be driving the car(is this a good decision?), as I previously experience a front ball joint separating the lower control arm. Which was no fun, and certainly could of been dangerous if I were on a main road at the time.


Here's the picture, I've highlighted the part in question:




Sean

 

Rock Auto sells 'em. About $95 including the ball joint.

More Information for RAYBESTOS 5021342

 

I decided just to take it to a mechanic and have him do it. However, what ended up happening is he almost immediately called me after I dropped the car off. He told me that despite no longer having its rubber grease boot, the ball joint is fine and has no play in it. He re-greased it and used weather proof silicone to keep the grease on. This worked for a few days, but it rained a little bit and now the noise is back.

Is the solution just to get a new ball joint pressed on? Will this metal on metal friction cause the ball joint to break eventually?



Sean

 

Eventually, the ball joint will fail. When is "eventually"? Nobody can say but Murphy's law dictates that it will happen at the worst possible time, like on the freeway at rush hour when you're on your way to an important appointment/date/meeting/whatever. When it does, it'll cause the wheel to mangle the fender and make a mess generally if the car doesn't flip over. You do NOT want to wait for this to happen.
The front and rear upper ball joints are the same part. I have never replaced a rear ball joint but I've replace four front ones and it's not much of a job if you have the tools and know what you are doing. Your mechanic should have replaced that ball joint once he saw the boot was missing. The fact that the squeak went away after he put some grease on that ball joint is a pretty good clue that your problem is right there. Get it fixed right. You'll be glad you did.

 

Thanks for the information, I'll be replacing the ball joint. My only question is, is the ball joint pressed or does it have a snap ring?



Sean

 

The front ones are pressed in. The ball joint may come with a snap ring but you don't use it. With the right tools, you can press the old one out and the new one in without removing the upper arm from the car. There's a "how-to" over on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club website. The pictures are of an older generation of convertibles but they are just the same on the 2001-2006 generation. The pictures show the front wheel. The part number for the ball joint is the same on the rear so the same principles should apply. You should be able to rent or borrow the tools you'll need from your local auto parts store. The "how to" shows what you'll need.
Come back and tell us how it went.

 

I'll probably be doing the job tomorrow. While I was under there, I was thinking of doing the rear struts too.

I was told that the spring on the rear struts is too small for the strut spring compression tool (OEM MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor | Product Details | Pep Boys) is this true?

If so is my only option to buy quick struts?



Sean

 

When I did mine I bought quick struts. At the time, Monroe was having a promotion where you got $90 back if you bought front shocks and a pair of quick struts for the rear. Nobody makes quick struts for the front because of the upper arm configuration.
Maybe the guys at Pep boys would let you see if their tool will fit a Sebring spring before you buy it. If they carry the quick strut, you should be able to see pretty easily if it'll work. Come back and tell us about it.

 

So, just did put the new ball joint. However, when using the press to get the old ball joint out, the ball joint it self broke out and the pressed portion of it stayed in the control arm. After a bit of work I was finally able to get it out. Then when putting the new ball joint in, while pressing it in the grease boot's seal broke open.


Anyways, after all that the rear squeak is still there. The mechanic I had originally brought the car to for the ball joint job had also said that the struts were loose, which would explain the rattling noise when going over bumps. Is it possible that this could also be causing the squeak noise? When pushing down on the rear of the car right above where the strut mount is you can hear the squeak. If this is the cause, is it because it's loose or because of some bushings?



Sean

 

You probably should have removed the dust boot before pressing the ball joint in, then reinstalled it afterwards.

Try putting your finger on the strut mount while somebody bounces the car up and down and see if you can feel any looseness or motion that coincides with the squeak. You access the mount by pulling back the lining of the compartment where the top goes when it folds. As I recall, you need to remove a couple of screws and peel back the liner. Get a good light because it's dark in there.