Hi
yes you are correct the Rad cap has a writing stating 16 PSI
from 220F to 250 the coolant reservoir starts to boil
I am using Prestone premix 50/50
Yes we were using the OBD to measure the temperature. That the same sensor that send the signal to the PCM
question

Is that the only Sensor that send the signal to the PCM for the fan or are they more.
By the fan working when the relay is been pulled, does that confirm the fan is not the issue

Thanks

 

There is only one temperature sensor.

It really shouldn't be boiling at 220°, fans or no fans. Have your mechanic check the radiator cap for pressure. It must be able to hold 14 psi. Also check the sealing surface on the reservoir to make sure it's smooth so the cap can seal properly.

I'm having a little difficulty understanding your statement "from 220F to 250 the coolant reservoir starts to boil"
Usually, you would expect a solution to reach its boiling point and continue to remain at that temperature until it boils away. The temperature shouldn't continue to rise after the boiling point is reached. The more volatile compounds in the solution will boil off but that should take quite a bit of time and result in a significant loss of fluid.

Did you run a compression test to rule out a head gasket problem?

If you pull the fan relay and the fan runs, then the fans are working properly.

 

I will take the car to another mechanic, to run another compression test, to ensure the coolant system is not loosing pressure.( Friday 13/2015)
Even the mechanic is puzzle that the coolant boil at that temperature.

Yes the Cap is secure on the reservoir tank.

I check to ensure there are no Leaf of paper, nothing on the Radiator.

I drove the car on the highway yesterday for a longer period than normal everyday driving, of ( 45 min) and there was no boiling of the coolant, or the temperature gauge did not pass 1/4.

Another thing comes to my mind is to increase the coolant mixture to a 60% coolant and 40% pure water ( distill water )

Once the compression test is done,if the mechanic don't find anything, I was thinking of changing the thermostat, seeing that it was change 3 years ago, and that the cheapest thing to change( any thoughts) .

Thanks you so much for all the help you have been giving me.

 

Refer to your owners manual for the correct mixture of coolant. There are many different types of antifreeze on the market. Be sure to use only the specified type and at the specified concentration. If a 50% concentration is called for, a 60% concentration is NOT better.
If you need an owners manual, download one from chrysler.com.

Changing the thermostat is somewhat of a PITA on the 2.7L engine as you have to remove the alternator to get to it. If you can drive the car for 45 minutes on the highway and the temp gauge doesn't go above 1/4 of the way, I don't think you have a thermostat problem. I'm not convinced there is any problem.

 

Thanks for your Help.

Will keep you posted in regards to the results.
I will drive this week to work, which is approx (30 k) back and forth,
20 k overall is highway driving and I will see how it goes.
also I will monitor the temperature gauge.

 

Yes my trip to the garage was not I though .
They check everything possible with there state of the art equipment ($110.00) paid for the diagnostic
No codes shown up
Run the car in park , coolant boil over from the resesvior from the time the gauge reach 1/2 way
I dont know what else to do


I only suggestion was to wired the fan direct, so when ever the
engine start the fan will start .
they are NOT 100% Sure if its the PCM so they dont recommend
replacing it ($350.00 +labor =$425.00)



Car has 16000K worth only $1000.00 Can dollars,



Funny thing
I can run the on the highway for 40 to 45 min no issues,(no traffic jams) then drive local for another 20 minutes until I get home with no issues, but if I leave it to run(without driving) example in park for a 1/2 of an hour the coolant boild over and the fan WILL not come on

Question
I /we cant figure out why the coolant boild over whentp the temperature reaches the fan will not cames on electronically



recap

 

1. You didn't answer any of the questions in the post you quoted.

2. For the $110 you spent at that garage, you probably could have gotten a complete diagnostic done at a Chrysler dealership which would have answered the question about whether the PCM was in need of replacement.

3. If you need to replace the pcm, search the internet for a reconditioned one. It should cost around $200. You send them your VIN and mileage, they send you the replacement, you install it and send the old one back to them.

4. Eliminate everything else before you replace the PCM. It's the most expensive thing and it's pointless to replace it if there's something cheap that's causing the problem. You need to know why the fans are not coming on. It may be something like a bad connection between the PCM and the fans.

5. You need to have good information about the system. At what temperature does the boiling start? What is the pressure in the system? Quality and concentration of the coolant?

You are correct to question whether this car is worth spending much more money on to fix this problem. If running the fan will keep it from overheating while idling, then you might want to put a switch inside the car to control the fan manually. If you are having problems at this time of year you will have more problems in the heat of the summer.

 

Well I found what going on
I can see coolant dripping on my driveway, it started a few day ago (Thursday )
What is the cost to replace the water pump and timing chain/is there any things else should I replace while in there including labour cost in Toronto.
Could it be that causing the fan not to turn on
Still trying to figure if to lease a new car I was looking at the Chrysler 200 2015 model pretty nice car any though

 

Yours is a 2006 so it should already have the new style timing chain. To replace the water pump, they will need to tear off the front of the engine because the water pump is located behind the timing chain. You may not need to replace the timing chain at all. It's a big job. Don't put it off because the leak could contaminate the oil and cause a huge mess if it gets bad enough. I have no idea what it would cost in Toronto but since the car is still drivable you can take it to a few places and get the best price.
Whether you keep it or get something new is up to you and what you want and need and can afford.

 

Thanks for all your help

Spoke to the mechanic, he advise me to change the water pump only, he said the timing chain, will out last the car.

Any thought if I should only change the water pump, or should I change the timing chain as well.