I decided to check my 2004 SEBRING LX's air filter this morning.

It was still clean but after I reconnected everything the throttle stuck a few minutes later while driving at 70 MPH. As I braked to slow down the engine started bucking/hesitating. I then turned off the ignition and restarted the engine ... it was revving at 4,000 RPM. A quick tap on the gas pedal returned the idle to normal.

The "key dance" showed Code P2074.

The hose & tube assembly (#2 on below illustration) was loose where it connects to the silver opening (what is that part?) so I tightened the clamp, checked the blue-tipped sensor that plugs into the hose and tightened the vacuum boot ... now it seems to run fine but the code won't clear.

I did break a clip off where the hose & tube assembly connects to the air cleaner housing box. Does that opening need to be completely sealed? I used duct tape to replace the broken clip.

WOW! What a rambling post - hope it makes sense! Thanks for any help you can provide!

http://www.moparoempartsstore.com/sc.../N/NM01150.gif

 

UPDATE:

I replaced the AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR (plastic hood was broken off the original part) and AIR FILTER. Then I plugged in one of those "talking" OBD scanners and this is what it said:

1st Part
Zilch!
Mister Dobalena, Mister Bob Dobalena
Mister Dobalena, Mister Bob Dobalena
Mister Dobalena, Mister Bob Dobalena
Mister Dobalena, Mister Bob Dobalena

2nd Part
Zilch!
China Clipper calling Alameda
China Clipper calling Alameda
China Clipper calling Alameda
China Clipper calling Alameda

3rd Part
Zilch!
Never mind the furthermore, the plea is self defense.
Never mind the furthermore, the plea is self defense.
Never mind the furthermore, the plea is self defense.
Never mind the furthermore, the plea is self defense.

4th Part
Zilch!
It is of my opinion that the people are intending.
It is of my opinion that the people are intending.
It is of my opinion that the people are intending.
It is of my opinion that the people are intending.

What should I do next? Drive my SEBRING into a deep canal and buy a CHEVROLET CRUZE?

 

No, but I'd certainly toss that talking scanner in the canal.

That code doesn't show up in the shop manual or the engine diagnostic manual, but probably means something to a DRB III.

Search the internet for it and you'll find some references to a large vacuum leak. If all else fails, bite the bullet and visit the dealer.

 

Hey, Mr. Cotter! P2074 seems to be an extremely obscure code. The rocket scientist at Advance Auto couldn't find it in any of his reference bibles either. Could the AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR affect engine performance (i.e. surging and racing engine at cold start)? I did replace it along with the air filter as mentioned above. The problem started right after I checked the air filter Saturday. It is definitely intermittent since my car runs normally most of the day. Seems like the cold start trips the MIL and codes P0340 and P2074. Then the light goes out after about 15 minutes of driving. Should I also replace the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR? What is a TARGET MAGNET? Thanks, Mr. C!

 

I would think that a problem with the cam sensor should throw its own code, so in the absence of something more definite, leave it alone.
Double check that you haven't left a vacuum hose off accidentally, or hooked one up wrong.
A target magnet works with the shaft position sensor to tell the sensor where the shaft is.

I don't believe your engine has an AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. I think that function is served by the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) and the mass air flow sensor MAF. Maybe one of the techs here can straighten that out.

Yes, a problem with one of those sensors can affect engine operation, but if it was good before, then look to see whether it got disturbed and see if you can put it back together properly.

 

DC ... The AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR Buy BWD Air Charge Temperature Sensor WT5545 at Advance Auto Parts plugs into the air intake hose just above the throttle clamp. Perhaps it is also referred to by another name? I inadvertently bent the OEM part's tip and broke off the plastic shield that surrounds it so I figured investing $35.00 in a replacement would be money well spent. I also disconnected the negative battery connection for about 5 minutes to retrain the computer - all OBD codes have cleared completely. The only problem I can observe now are high RPMs (3000) on a cold engine start. To achieve a normal idle of around 1000 RPM, I must punch the accelerator 1-4 times. A warm engine start idles OK. I believe all of the vacuum hoses/boots have been properly reattached. I don't hear any hissing noises. Any idea what could be causing the cold start idle issue? Should I clean the throttle? Thanks, DC!

 

PCM

 

just getting ready to post the same U have a vac leak

 

Problem appears to be solved. After replacing the air charge temperature switch and air filter, cleaning the throttle, reconnecting all hoses and then resetting the computer, my 2004 SEBRING LX (2.4L) cold started normally after sitting outside for over 10 hours in sub-50 degree weather. She seems to be running better through all of the "D" speeds and idles smoother at a lower RPM. Like granny used to say, "Knock on wood, Stevie". I am cautiously optimistic that the lastest crisis has been averted. Must have been that talking OBD scanner (see above)!

 

Holy MIL, Batman! I knew the purring engine and smooth ride was too good to be true. On a quick trip to Kroger an hour ago, she started bucking and sputtering at 20 MPH. Key dance threw a P0340 at me. And my original radio settings suddenly reappeared after the negative battery terminal disconnect/computer reset 24 hours ago. Is it possible that it recalled all of my previous data including the P0340 and the memory is causing the sluggish performance? I did another reset and we'll see how she runs tomorrow morning. Or is it time for a new camshaft position sensor?