If anyone can help, I need it badly. To start, I have a 2004 Sebring LX (4 door sedan), 4 cyl, 2.4L. When I come to a stop, the car will be idle fine for about 30 secs then coughs as if it is going to stall, then resumes normal idle and is fine. Check engine light is always on and the codes never match the problems. Every seal, gasket, sensor, etc.have been checked and tested and nobody can figure it out. I've read about harsh breaking issues with other models, this seems to be the same. I recently started leaking coolant - removed the tank, replaced hoses, pump is fine. I can't seem to locate leak.

I typically fix my own cars and regularly work on them, I have found/fixed leaks in the past, but, this car has me baffeled. Nobody can figure out the coughing issue, where the coolant is coming from, or why the check engine light is on. I am not getting blow-back or an oil leak, so I know the coughing issue is not related to the o-rings. The emissions sensor is not displaying an issue and it meets the NJ State regulations.

Anyone having the same or similar? Any ideas of what to look for before I rip my engine apart and rebuild it?

Thank you!

 

Have you tried parking over a clean piece of cardboard to try to get a handle on exactly where the coolant is dropping from? Mark the cardboard with some lines to show centerline of wheels and vehicle or some other landmark to help narrow the search. It won't pinpoint the leak but it should help you look in the correct area.
What exactly are the codes you have gotten?

 

Codes are important to helping anyone diagnose problems, especially remotely. A complete list of codes is appreciated.

Things that may or may not throw codes: (And could be the cause)

Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
Idle Air Valve
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve

As far as the codes not matching the problem:

Faulty PCM computer
Poor electrical connections anywhere
Incorrect interpretation of code (it happens more often than any mechanic would like to admit.)

Put the codes up here and let us all double check what you have been told.

 

I managed to get a mechanic to narrow down the issue. Intake air sensor was broken at the tip which was causing codes of overheating, valve issues, etc. I will get a list of the codes as soon as I can, thank you! The check engine light went off after intake sensor was replaced.

irdaneelThe mechanic I worked with is going to hook the car up this weekend to see if all of the codes are now gone.

The car still has a coughing issue when I come to a stop after driving - not all the time, intermittantly.

I used your suggestion, dcotter0579, I did mark with cardboard the leak point. It is leaking down on the side where the fan belt is. Could be coolant tank, could be a seal, etc. I know it is not the radiator or pump. Radiator is filled and car is not overheating.

I will fill the coolant tank and within 24 to 48 hours the tank is empty even after replacing the hoses. I took the tank out capped the hose adapter and left overnight nothing leaked. It is almost like it is being siphoned out.

Any ideas?

 

"I will fill the coolant tank and within 24 to 48 hours the tank is empty even after replacing the hoses. I took the tank out capped the hose adapter and left overnight nothing leaked. It is almost like it is being siphoned out."

Are you saying that with the tank out of the car the tank didn't leak or are you saying that nothing else leaked? If you checked the tank for leaks off the car, then we can rule that out. If you saw no other leaks with the tank off the car, that doesn't necessarily rule out leaks elsewhere. The tank is not pressurized, but the rest of the system is pressurized in operation, and stays pressurized until the engine cools down. It could be that you are getting leaks only when the system is under pressure.

The system is supposed to pull coolant from the tank back into the engine block as it cools down, so there is some "siphoning" going on there.

Have you looked underneath for either water tracking or sources of leaking? If you can get the car up on a hoist or on ramps and look carefully with a good source of light, you may see a source of leaking, or at least some tracks that could point toward the leak.

Another possibility is the water pump. On that engine, it's a job to replace because it's buried behind the timing chain. Let's rule out everythingelse first before digging into that area.

 

If you have no coolant and it isn't leaking out, check the oil. If it looks like peanut butter then you have a blown manifold gasket and all the coolant is in your oil tank. If that is the case, you probably need a new engine because the coolant will destroy all the most of the parts of the engine if it gets inside.

MRR

 

Question? What makes you sure that the water pump is not the culprit? Leaking while moving, can't find a drip, then running off that end of the motor when it is parked leads me there.