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I have a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LX 2.5 li V6. The car wont crank. Dash lights all come on and I can hear the fuel pump priming. I thought it was the battery so I changed it and it started a few times then stopped again, I jumped it using a 200amp jump pack and it worked. After I turned it off it would not start again, I assumed it was the alternator and spent $150 and many hours changing it. But the car still wont crank even when jumped. No codes being thrown and starter is not making any noises. Any idea of what the problem could be?
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The battery Cables seem to be fine and I replaced the terminals so I know I have a nice tight fit. If the starter relay is bad would I hear a clicking noice coming from it? The repair manual says it is located in the center consol and when I turn the key I can hear a faint clicking noise coming from behind there as well as from under the hood. (not from the startor) (it is not trying to turn) Just like the relay is being activated or something.
So I took out the starter and had it tested it is still good. I tested the the two leads at the startor with a test light the 12v has power, should the small lead also have power with the key in the on postion? - it does not.
Could this be related to the stock alarm?
Does anyone know where the ASD relay is on a 95 coupe, and a way to test it?
The dash light and head lights are still all working properly and the fuel pump is still priming
If the fuel pump is working it's not the ASD relay which shuts off the fuel pump, among other things. The starter relay should not emit a clicking sound. There should be one click which you won't hear because the starter will have engaged and will mask that little click. If you hear clicking it could be the relay is trying to work but is not succeeding. It may be bad or it may not be getting enough current. Check the relay and all the wires leading to it. A little corrosion can cause it not to work.
The small lead at the starter should have power only when the key is turned to "start". Just because there is a voltage at the big lead, that doesn't mean that the current carrying capacity of the wiring is sufficient. It's easily possible to get a 12 volt reading through a corroded connection. The current required to drive a voltmeter to 12 volts is miniscule. The problem arises when you try to drive 200 amps of current through that connection. The car is 14 years old and things are going to get a little cruddy down there after 14 years.
Ok so when I put the starter back in after being bench tested, the car worked fine for about 3 weeks and last friday it stopped working on me again. I took out the starter and bench tested it, it tested good and then it worked for me for about 2 days and stopped again. Now the car wont start, all dash lights, fuel pump, headlights, basically everything works, just the starter is not engaging. The cables have no corosion, or dirt/oil on them. The relay is working fine and the fusible links are good.
When bench tested the starter Is still good. Is it possible the starter will test good but wont be good once put under a load?