40 miles into a 200 mile trip the a/c stopped working on my wife's 1997 Sebring convertible. She completed the trip without issue, but on her drive into work the next morning her power steering quit as well. I went to inspect the vehicle thinking it was the belts, and sure enough it was. The main belt was shredded apart except for a very narrow piece that was still allowing the vehicle to operate. The rest of the belt had shredded and knocked off the smaller belt that goes around the power steering pump. I bought the belts to replace them, but noticed that the pulley on the a/c compressor was broken and had quite a bit of play. I'm not sure if the entire compressor went out or not, but I couldn't find just a clutch, so I bought an entire rebuilt compressor(ACDELCO part # 15-21060). I was hoping someone could provide me with some insight on how I might determine if it is just the clutch or the entire compressor. Also, will a generic clutch puller kit work for removing the clutch/pulley from the compressor?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

I really need some help here if anyone is willing.

 

If you've already bought the new compressor, why not just put it in? Pulling the clutch off a compressor in the car is a much harder job than just replacing the whole thing. That's why they sell them that way.

 

Doesn't that require vacuuming out the existing R-134a in the system? I don't currently have the equipment for that. I thought you needed a certification to open up an a/c system?

I rented the tools needed to replace the clutch from Autozone and was planning on using the following as a guide:

http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/comclutch/index.htm

 

You can take the car to an A/C service facility and have them suck out the old refrigerant. They should give you credit for the refrigerant but probably won't. Then, after you have installed the new compressor, take it back and have them evacuate and re-charge the system. Perfectly legal.

It's a PITA removing the clutch while the compressor is still connected to the car, even if you un-mount it. That Jaguar was a rear drive vehicle with the engine mounted north-south and the compressor right on top where it's easy to get to.

Your call. Let us know how it works out.

 

I took your advice to replace the entire compressor. It seems the refrigerant had already leaked out of the system so it seems as if the seal where the clutch attaches to the compressor is blown. Anyways, I can't figure out how to remove the metal a/c lines from the expansion valve. I was able to remove the expansion valve itself, but the metal a/c lines seem as if they are connected by a metal lip that was bent around the stem coming out of the expansion valve and I have no idea how to unbend it to slide them apart. Any suggestions?

 

u need ac quick disconnect tools to push up in there and release the spring then pull the line off.

 

On Sunday I went to a local autoparts store and asked about disconnecting the lines. One of the salesmen had no clue, but the other directed me toward the tool I needed. I got everything removed, flushed, and put back together. I didn't have a breaker bar to adjust the tension for the power steering, so I just left that belt off for now. I haven't vacuumed out the system because I need to get a vacuum pump. It looks like the MV8500 from Mityvac should work, but I read somewhere that I should vacuum out the system for about an hour to make sure all of the moisture boils out, is this true? If it is, I'm not sure I want to squeeze a hand pump for an hour.

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp#MV8500

 

Those hand vacuum pumps are not going to be of much use on an A/C system. You need something with more power to it and a way to connect it to the system (guage manifold). There are electric vacuum pumps made for A/C systems but they are sort of expensive. If you have compressed air available, there are inexpensive vacuum pumps that run off compressed air.
It does take some time under vacuum to draw off moisture in the system, especially if you haven't replaced the receiver-dryer which is designed to trap moisture and give it up slowly using a chemical dessicant. It's possible to reduce the time under vacuum by gently applying heat to the receiver-dryer.
That's probably all academic to your current problem. Your goal is to get this thing working by spending the least amount of money. You have done very well so far on your own. If I were you, I'd take it somewhere for an evacuation and fill. It will probably be cheaper than buying a vacuum pump and guage manifold.

 

I replaced the compressor, drier, and expansion valve and all the seals for the a/c lines at the connector. I couldn't figure out how to get the little springs out of the a/c lines where they connect, so I wasn't able to replace those. However, if you know how to remove them I'd love to know for any future work.

Do you think this vacuum pump would do the job?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96677

I assume the manifold gauge is just the little set of gauges that you use to put r134a in? I purchased a set of those from Autozone a couple years back when I needed to add r134a for around $20.