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First time poster and first time owning a Chrysler;
I have a 98 Sebring Convertible JXI with the 2.5(H) engine made in Mexico
when I bought the car the other week the person told me that the noise was coming thru the speakers when you press the gas which I didn't check my fault but since I had a car that did the same thing all it took was a low pass filter to get rid of it, I trusted him big mistake.
Well other day I was working on the speakers and to my surprise they don't even work L
I posted a video on you tube while I was driving and some info on what's going on in the car while it is making the noise
it seems that if I turn to the right the car noise stops for a bit also heard a little grinding last night then all the whining went away for a short bit but sadly it is back
also pressing the breaks and releasing does something to the noise as well
I idle the car but can't pinpoint the sound valves sound good, timing belt sounds good and I am hoping its just the powersteering pump and not the transmission
the car seems to drive and shift fine.
Sorry but your video is virtually useless. It might have helped a little if you had pointed the lens at the dash so the engine and vehicle speed could have been correlated with the sound, but it's essentially impossible to diagnose a mysterious noise over the internet.
If the noise is present when the car is not moving, it's more likely related to the engine than the driveline. If present only when the car is moving, then something in the driveline is more likely the culprit.
If engine related, you might be able to pin it down using a mechanic's stethoscope, which you can buy relatively cheaply. It allows you to listen to such components as the alternator, power steering pump or the A/C compressor "up close and personal".
If driveline related, you might be able to pin it down by getting the car up on jackstands and running the wheels up to moderate speed. If it's a wheel bearing, this may not work since bearings sometimes will be nice and quiet when not under load.
Anyway, you're going to need to track this down on the car itself, not via posts on a bulletin board.
Took it to the dealer and it was 2 broken motor mounts
front and rear ones allowing the alternator to rub on plastic shroud
and when I turned right it would allow enough room and wouldn't rub
When I used the gas it would make it rub and if I let off the gas it would stop
So the parts aren't bad
DEA Engine Mount - Rear $41.94
DEA Engine Mount - Front $33.94
DEA Engine Mount - Front Right $37.94
Westar Engine Mount - Front Right $34.98
Westar Engine Mount - Rear Cradle Insert $9.98
Westar Engine Mount - Front Cradle Insert $9.98
Now should I go with the full Mount or are the inserts Ok to use ? way cheaper on the wallet but are they junk ?
and are there any install guides out there ?
Bought a Chilton's Manual was a total waste of $25.00 doesn't show anything about the mounts or even rear interior parts
I have a can do attitude, I can do it if you pay me enough
Whether to go with the insert or the full mount depends on where it's broken. You'll have to look at your situation to decide that.
Generally, the procedure for changing a mount is to support the engine with a floor jack and a block of wood, then remove the through bolt and then the bolts that mount the brackets to the frame and engine.
You'll need ramps or jackstands to hold the car up, and a good set of metric wrenches to unbolt the mounts. You may need to remove some other components for clearance.
If you decide your tool box and/or skills aren't up to the task, hire it done. There's no shame there, and the mechanic will appreciate it that the problem has been properly diagnosed.