2.5 CRD fuel lines and connectors check
#1
11-26-2014, 06:15 PM
2.5 CRD fuel lines and connectors check
Hello everyone
Has anyone ever checked the fuel lines and connectors on the low side (tank filler to tank to low side pump/filter/heater to high pressure pump and auxilliary heater and the returns from the injectors and common rail to the high pressure pump and then the tank?
Any helpful hints would be appreciated. I'll be doing this in the coming days. I seem to have air entering the fuel system (causing rough idling and excessive fuel because the computer detects a lower fuel pressure). In fact the pressure on the low side was 1bar below minimum threshold.
ty, kkc.
Has anyone ever checked the fuel lines and connectors on the low side (tank filler to tank to low side pump/filter/heater to high pressure pump and auxilliary heater and the returns from the injectors and common rail to the high pressure pump and then the tank?
Any helpful hints would be appreciated. I'll be doing this in the coming days. I seem to have air entering the fuel system (causing rough idling and excessive fuel because the computer detects a lower fuel pressure). In fact the pressure on the low side was 1bar below minimum threshold.
ty, kkc.
#2
11-27-2014, 07:21 AM
Recycled Answer from a post made 08-05-2014
Quick potted history:
- parked up about a week
- of and on -5 °C never got over freezing point, car never used
- started first time as usual - 800CCA / 75ah - Bosch
- ran for 5 minutes then stopped
Got a M8 round with a two battery Land Cruiser, 8 minutes at 2000RPM from him into my battery, it spun over like an airplane prop, no start - Aborted to the pub.
Next day ditto, it wouldn't start, pulled an injector pipe and it dribbled like a baby. Made good the injector and felt around for a hand primer, found it [after removing the plastic engine cover] flat as a *art, hand pumped and primed till the bubble was hard and the pipe was pressured. It turned over and started.
- ran for 5 minutes then stopped
Clearly the hand priming could pull all the way and fill the filter but the cars 12-17psi low pressure pump could not. Still not sure I've sorted it but the fact is a hand prime will do it so I figure [only a guess] the slack fuel filter was drawing in air allowing the fuel run back once the tension was off it. Took it for a 20 minute each way ride to here with my mate in tow in case I needed another pump~n~jump and it ran like a well tuned sports car. So I've been on a garage ramp and had a look all the way from tank to engine, no visual or otherwise obvious problems, didn't check the fuel heater, because the plastic cover was warm to the touch so I assumed working ok.
If that proves to be the case and its sorted fine, I'm happy. If not I'll 'chonk' about 4 inches out of the metal [coated] fuel line and stick an in-line one way filter, that'll stop the bugger running back and give me the added benefit of a 'visual' on fuel. Even without the - °C cold weather I'll know tomorrow if the fuel has 'run backwards'. Thanks for your attention on this joker2cv, I'm still open to ideas and suggestions from you or anyone else.
Update, and a salutary lesson. Went outside today, fired first time, so "a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious.
So the first thing to eliminate on non first time starts is the LP side of the fuel supply :
Lift bonnet, find the hand primer pump it should be hard, pump it, if it takes more than one pump to make it rock hard and impossible to pump any harder you have a low pressure fuel problem. Check the (1) spin-oil filter is not loose and the (2) screw on water trap is not loose. Most regular service jobs are given to 'learners' and the simple omission of checking the spin~on is tight / O ring was oiled, and the water trap [the white bit on this filter] is not loose. Frequently these schoolboy omissions are the cause of filters working slack causing all sorts of misery tracing the fault. A decent scanner of course would give a better pointer - but this easily eliminated 1st start test needs you only to hand~prime before the 1st start to realise its a LP issue.
If the hand primer needs pumping you are leaking pressure out or allowing air into your low pressure fuel supply, the most obvious are the two I've suggested, either of which will lead to a car not starting warm or cold.
NOTE : The picture of the filter & water trap is for the 2.8 CRD and the hand primer is for a Ford so both are for illustration and recognition purposes only, find a pic that is the same as your model CRD.
Quick potted history:
- parked up about a week
- of and on -5 °C never got over freezing point, car never used
- started first time as usual - 800CCA / 75ah - Bosch
- ran for 5 minutes then stopped
Got a M8 round with a two battery Land Cruiser, 8 minutes at 2000RPM from him into my battery, it spun over like an airplane prop, no start - Aborted to the pub.
Next day ditto, it wouldn't start, pulled an injector pipe and it dribbled like a baby. Made good the injector and felt around for a hand primer, found it [after removing the plastic engine cover] flat as a *art, hand pumped and primed till the bubble was hard and the pipe was pressured. It turned over and started.
- ran for 5 minutes then stopped
Clearly the hand priming could pull all the way and fill the filter but the cars 12-17psi low pressure pump could not. Still not sure I've sorted it but the fact is a hand prime will do it so I figure [only a guess] the slack fuel filter was drawing in air allowing the fuel run back once the tension was off it. Took it for a 20 minute each way ride to here with my mate in tow in case I needed another pump~n~jump and it ran like a well tuned sports car. So I've been on a garage ramp and had a look all the way from tank to engine, no visual or otherwise obvious problems, didn't check the fuel heater, because the plastic cover was warm to the touch so I assumed working ok.
If that proves to be the case and its sorted fine, I'm happy. If not I'll 'chonk' about 4 inches out of the metal [coated] fuel line and stick an in-line one way filter, that'll stop the bugger running back and give me the added benefit of a 'visual' on fuel. Even without the - °C cold weather I'll know tomorrow if the fuel has 'run backwards'. Thanks for your attention on this joker2cv, I'm still open to ideas and suggestions from you or anyone else.
Update, and a salutary lesson. Went outside today, fired first time, so "a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious.
So the first thing to eliminate on non first time starts is the LP side of the fuel supply :
Lift bonnet, find the hand primer pump it should be hard, pump it, if it takes more than one pump to make it rock hard and impossible to pump any harder you have a low pressure fuel problem. Check the (1) spin-oil filter is not loose and the (2) screw on water trap is not loose. Most regular service jobs are given to 'learners' and the simple omission of checking the spin~on is tight / O ring was oiled, and the water trap [the white bit on this filter] is not loose. Frequently these schoolboy omissions are the cause of filters working slack causing all sorts of misery tracing the fault. A decent scanner of course would give a better pointer - but this easily eliminated 1st start test needs you only to hand~prime before the 1st start to realise its a LP issue.
If the hand primer needs pumping you are leaking pressure out or allowing air into your low pressure fuel supply, the most obvious are the two I've suggested, either of which will lead to a car not starting warm or cold.
NOTE : The picture of the filter & water trap is for the 2.8 CRD and the hand primer is for a Ford so both are for illustration and recognition purposes only, find a pic that is the same as your model CRD.
#4
09-22-2021, 06:25 AM
Hello KKC, I have the same problem as you had, can you please let me know how to resolve it. I shall be very grateful to you.
My email is arvind_gaur54@yahoo.com.
My email is arvind_gaur54@yahoo.com.
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