- I would never pull the gearbox brain while connected to a battery
- unbolting is unearthing is disconnecting while live
- did you pull the TCM after disconnecting the battery NEG terminal, and only then, reconnect the battery to read the codes ?

Pull the NEG all night then see what happens when you re-boot all 3 modules in the morning. Better still pull both NEG & POS and clamp them together to discharge the stored capacitor[s], then see what happens in the morning re-boot. I've never seen a 'matco' this side of the pond I do know its only recently 2015 they joined the big boys with an affiliation to Launch that they got their hands on good pro-level software. No offence intended my friend some scanners even Snap-On are crap with Chryslers - not all pro scanners are equal and Chryslers use a 'leaning' gear box software type, try a different known to be good on Chrysler diagnostic scanner. Best of luck.

 

The TCM was pulled while the battery NEG was still connected.

Okay tonight ill remove both pos and neg terminals on the battery and clamp them together to see what happens in the morning.
I did also use a cen-tech scan tool which i honestly thought was better than the matco one. Both however gave me same results.

 

It was not a criticism of your scanner, lets say 10 scanners between $2k and $5k, 5 of them will do a better job on abc but a poor job on xyz and the other 5 will be reversed. Your issue will be like most wiring or battery, a garage will always read a scanner and start 'parts darts' with your money without testing each individual component it is going to replace. Fast forward to now like tfb I don't understand why even with an induced [you removed its brain] fault your scanner does not report information back. Wiring or battery, your car is probably ok its the COMMS on the BUS that seems to be the fault. Changing the ATF4+ is never squandered and an always worthwhile intervention in any case. Battery and spike / arching should be next, the PCi BUS throws a complete brain spin when it senses electromagnetic interference from say a starter motor. I'm not even sure which BUS your 2000 Voyager has its probably a pre CAN PCi but your scanner should tell you precisely what version and date yours is, I do know that some of the Chrysler & Dodge products from 2000 were using a very early version of a pre CAN called CCD. I suspect your are using a $100 DIY level reader not a diagnostic scanner, you may need to kiss arras and persuade a transmission shop to give you a free diagnostic read. Best of luck my friend.

The pull and clamp both cables suggestion was a stab in the dark at getting a clean boot for all three puters but you have to consider that most of the wiring from all of the car goes through the nightmare that is the 'minging' underside of the fusebox. Use that 12 hours to make sure you have a fully charged battery. Have a look under the hood one dark night to see if you can see any indication of arching.

- as stated my friend, """I would never pull the gearbox [or any] brain [even the fusebox umbilical] while connected to a battery"""

 

Discharging the capacitors did not change anything..
And now it does not even go into limp mode... was planning on pulling it into the garage and just taking the tranny out but couldn't even move it in limp mode.

 

is there a series of solenoid valves located on the valve body that operate the shifts on the Chrysler auto box like other cars. Is the valve body easily removed to check the solenoids for open circuit. Or can the solenoids be removed from below. Just wondering if fault relates to a solenoid.

 

I pretty sure I can get to the valve body from below. How would I check for open circuits once removed?

 

Continuity of circuit through the solenoid of course. If you connect up the two wires of the solenoid to a meter on resistance and find resistance is either too high or no resistance at all its knackered, open circuit. Would be interesting to get a schematic on here of how the solenoids work, how they cover and uncover fluid ways or valves.
Nice if we could get a picture on the inside of the box then so we can indicate the solenoids.
QinteQ/ftb/Chrysler Cares have you's any pictures, diagrams/schematics of these boxes.
Wonder how many gearboxes have been scrapped due to a dud solenoid.

 

I see Youtube have got a series of complete Gearbox strip up to about 8 vids on a 2001. Still to check it out.

 

Ahh so your car does not move at all but you can hear the gears turning. Your answer might be on Youtube Chrysler Voyager Automatic Gearbox repairs no 1. But this is for a 2001 model however it doesn't say 3.3. Diesel or Petrol. Relates to the transfer gears between main hub set and the drive diff. On the video the gear on the end of the main hub is sheared off, doesn't surprise me as it doesn't look up to the job. To gain entry just remove end cover and pull at gears. See video it helps.
By the way what box is used in these Voyagers.

 

I found 41TE Trans is in the 2.8CRD.
TFB gives good gearbox drawings at skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...=folder%2c.pdf but can't seem to open some of the micro pictures on the schematics.
There is a Solenoid test video on Youtube if you have his fancy tester. But Ohms test meter does.
Interesting fault on here relating to a limp mode caused by a wire between Gearbox and the control module for the box.