I have a limited 2001 which used to be AWD ("converted" to FWD few years back when rear diff started to show problems). I have had the codes for the torque converter not locking up for probably 1.5 years by now -- never head any overheating issue even in high heat... In preparation for the inspection a week ago have done quite a bit of work on front end (bushings, breaks etc) which involved also replacing left CV shaft -- didn't even realize that it is filled with ATF, so some leaked and I have later topped it up. didn't explicitly check later for leaks but under cover ground seemed without lakes of ATF.

So we went for a trip. Did just fine 150 miles there, but on the way back, around 90 miles from home: first speedometer needed dived to 0 -- I just assumed that instrumental panel misbehaving (happened before but due to weak battery), so continued driving. In about 5 minutes I have noted that engine is driving at 3k RPM and car feels sluggish -- pulled over on a side of the highway and we smelled burning -- opened the hood and smoke was coming out from AT dip stick. Engine temperature was normal, no radiator fans going nuts. Waited for 20 min and tried to get it driving -- doesn't, might kick hard trying to go forward when pressing gas in D, seems to reaction in R. When were pulling the car to tow truck, seems was a bit stuck even in neutral.

So -- long story short -- AT seems to be gone, and probably beyond any repair. Tried to get into a misery of looking for a new old car -- but I hate it (on a limited budget), so thought to exercise idea of replacing that AT.
We leave in area with snow and salt on the roads in winter -- car, even though in a nice condition overall, has rust (was about to patch again rocker panels).

Do you think it is feasible to replace AT myself on a parking? (did lots of car work on that parking so neighbours already do not get surprised ;-))
Is it worth it? I think engine is in a good shape; body -- tolerable; exhaust -- (aftermarket SS) muffler probably needs to be replaced too now or within a year.
Would dealers consider such a no-go vehicle for some value for trade in?

 

Look back through threads on here as there was info on renewing trans, think it was a garage lift job. I don't think you will get much for it as a trade in, how about buying another the same and using yours as spares. Or vice versa, buy another requiring work and replace what's needed on yours. Of course you'll be toiling to find another car for the price with the comfort. These Voyagers sell in UK cheap with problems that could be repaired via on here.
Just Ask...

 

Having read what Yarikoptic puts, I'd get shot of the vehicle for best price/partex that can be gotten, and buy something else. As usual, get the best deal you can. Contemplating all that work on an old known to be dodgy vehicle is a no-no really.
Just don't overlook the condition of any part of the next vehicle you buy, and if it's a GV., you'll already know what to look for.
Quod erat desperandum...

Leedsman.

 

Thank you guys! I indeed looked around (ebay, craigslist) for a reasonably updated sample of that series (<=2007) so I could harvest some parts for it from the old one, but so far have not got around a well priced one. So indeed might need just to jump to the next series with cashing out some credit green ;-)

P.S. today decided to start it again to listen to the AT banging etc, and apparently I have drained a battery while leaving my charger in battery-powered outlet... so will jump start it in the evening

 

No battery charger should back-discharge the battery it is connected to, even unpowered. This would be very poor design indeed. El cheapo chargers using common silicon diodes and a mains transformer will not, cannot back-discharge.

Leedsman.