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I have a 2006 T&C with power sliding doors and power locks. I have 2 problems
1. Right side lock will not unlock by power. Only unlocks manually.
2. Left side sliding door will not unlock electrically or manually and will not open
at all. The manual opening push button on handle doesn't work either.
The entire door will not open at all. Stuck closed.
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Right door > Try a reset by pulling the IOD fuse in the fuse box (IPM) for 2-3 minutes. No joy? There is a wire harness that runs in an articulated track on the bottom of the door. The constant movement breaks the wires. You'll have to remove the wires from the track and inspect. Go to YouTube and type "Caravan sliding door wire harness" for videos on the subject.
Left door > Sounds like the either the lock mechanism is broken or if you're lucky the plastic keeper that connects the rod to the mechanism is broken. You'll have to remove the trim panel that covers the door and have a look.
My '06 T&C SWB (power locks, manual doors) had the passenger side sliding door's lock actuator fail at around 50,000 miles. For the last couple of weeks before it stopped working (either locking *or* unlocking), it would make a "hoot" sound when I tried to command the locks with either the front door switches or the wireless fob.
As previously mentioned, I'm not so good with reasoning out failures in moving parts, so I had the dealer check it along with replacing a belt idler and some other stuff under the hood. Their "fix" was simply to replace the actuator -- but at least they knew how to get the door apart, and had the part in stock. The service manager said it was one of the five or six most common failures they see, along with serpentine idlers and rack-and-pinion assemblies.
Not the dealer I bought it from used, but the dealer who was in the town where I lived at the time.
Even Consumer Reports listed the door locks as a weakness under "Body Electrical" for several years of the model series.
No idea on your motorized doors, though. Dunno if that helps at all.
-- Zyg --
The Body Control Module (BCM) locks or unlocks the doors when an actuation input signal from a door lock switch, Central Lock key cylinder or Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) is received. The BCM turns on the output drivers and provides a voltage level to the door lock motor for a specified time.
To test an individual door lock motor, disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. To lock the door, connect a fused 12 volt power source to the positive pin of the lock motor and a ground wire to the other pin. To unlock the door reverse the wire connections at the motor pin terminals. If these results are not obtained, replace the door latch.
I had the exact same problems as the original poster except that my sliding doors are manual and not powered. The passenger side will unlock manually but the driver side was completely frozen shut and would not open manually from inside or outside the vehicle. I found this post and tons of other stuff on the net. There is one nice video that shows how to take off the door panel and remove the actuator so I had that done in under 15 minutes. My problem was that I had no idea how everything worked mechanically inside the door and it's not easy to see much in there. I had removed the actuator and pulled everything I could feel inside there and could not get the door open. Finally I magically did something that released the lock. So with the door open I removed the 3 T30 screws and then you can pull the lock assembly out of the hole on the inside and inspect everything with all the cables still attached. I was able to figure out how everything worked mechanically so now I understand why the door seemed to be frozen shut.
The door lock actuator on the driver side has that white arm where on one end there is a red clip attached to the metal bar that leads up to the mechanical pin everyone is used to pulling up to unlock the door. The other end of that arm has a curved groove that fits over a pin. That pin moves up and down and when in the down position you cannot open the door. My actuator was frozen in place not allowing that pin to move up. After I removed the actuator the pin was in the down position so every time I pulled the plate attached to all the cables it was not pulling the plate below it. You can get it open with one hand inside there by sliding that pin to the upper position and then pushing up and towards the back of the van it should release the lock. Another way would be to just hold that pin up and have another person pull on the outer handle or inner door lock button near the top of the door.
I realize now that I could have just replaced the actuator without removing the lock assembly and everything would have been working just fine. I installed the actuator on the lock assembly while I had it hanging out the hole which made it a little easier to get everything lined up and I didn't have to worry about that small T15 screw falling into the door.
So in the end I got the drivers side door repaired for $64. A couple years ago the dealer charged us $250 to repair the passenger door for the same failure. I plan to get a second actuator and repair the passenger door now that I know how it all works inside. Although it could turn out to be a broken wire on that side. It seems like with these vehicles having a spare door lock actuator will always come in handy.
I detailed this out hoping it will help the next guy not fumble around inside the door for an hour trying to figure out what piece of metal does what inside there.