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My car is now working and now has a valid MOT after trying to resolve my issues with the ABS light and brake light (Parking Brake) light being on.
And so I thought I would enlighten everyone as to what I found wrong, firstly on the ABS module we have 3 power feeds, 2 of them are constant and the third is the switched live. When first encountered I checked that I had all three power supplys, when testing on the plug and these were good, this all then pointed to the CAB module on the ABS being defective?
I bought one off Ebay for £75 but this still did not work, I once again checked all the cabling and very importantly I checked the power on the plug connector I once again had all 3 power supplys including the switched live.
It must be once again the CAB module on the ABS as all the indicators pointed to this, and so I went to a dealer a bought a brand new one £500 but this still did not work, My last resort would have been handing it over to the dealer and asking them to get it done.
However with 3 now CAB modules at my disposal I thought I would carry out one more check, I took the cover off the ABS module and decided to check the power directly to the PCB on the CAB Module incase the plug was defective although their was no visual indications that it was, I had both of the constant lives but wait a minute no switched live?
I disconnected the plug and checked the power again at the plug I had both the constant live feeds and the switched live, plugged it back on the module and 2 constant live feeds but no switched feed when checking on the PCB.
Circuit checked the switched live feed back to the BCM power at the plug at both ends, disconnected the plug checked the cable continuity from the plug BCM to the ABS module no continuity, cable broken????
The swiched live feed although tested was breaking down under load and thus no ABS talkie Talkie, run a new cable, all working and the new CAB module returnd to the dealer for refund as not needed as the one off Ebay for £75 working.
The time I spent although no expert on this wouls have knocked up a fare old bill if I had left it to the dealer to find and it was only through trying to cross all the I's and dot the T's that I managed to find this.
I hope this helps any one else with such an issue.
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I've been talking to the main computer.
can you please advise where to find the bcm to abs module wire,
as we have a voyager, with the abs light on, been on diagonistic machine and all they could find is a voltage variance reading, which is going up and down.
possibly it may be a broken wire as you have found, but need to know which one or how to find it
well fixed it now thanks to reading how you resolved your issue gasman.
unpluged the loom connector to the abs module, not got a voltage tester,
so had to do it old school, some wire and bulb.
Anyway ignition off, tested wire 10 (switch positive) no feed, ign switched on got a feed (bulb lit)
wire 24, 25amp fused feed, yes had a permanant feed to it
wire 9, 40amp fused feed, no, no lighty
so took battery off, flipped over the fuse box, unpluged the connector, tested the wire for feed from one end to the other, no lighty.
replaced the full wire from fuse box to the abs module wire connector, re-tested, got live feed now.
replaced everything, turned ign on, ABS light still on,
drove to bottom of street, abs light off, YES.
parked back up,ign off, no abs light
Ign on abs light on then off
start abd light on then off.
had taken it in for its MOT last tuesday had to be dianosed, all they came back with is
erm could be a fuse, relay, sensor, broken wire or abs pump, all that from a £10,000 diagnostic machine.
jusr show with all the high tech stuff today, the old school circuit test, battery/wire/bulb cant really fail.
Going back in on monday for its MOT and hopefully £40.00 refund for that worthless diagnostic check
Thanks for the info. I repaired the ABS and brake light problem on my 2003 town and country today with your help. I read the code with one actron reader and it came back with a module busy code. I then took the van to Autozone and they read it with their reader and came back with a power to the module fault. I checked the power on the pins to the module with it unplugged and came back with the same results that all was ok. I then tested it with a light bulb and found no power on Pin 10. The problem was with the Green with red stripe wire going to pin ten. The other end of the wire under the fuse block was coroded and fell off as soon as I touched it. (the fuse box flips up to get at the underside. The green red wire is large for the 40 amp capacity) This high resistance explains why it tested ok with the meter. It could not handle the current when a light bulb was connected. I was able to cut the connector apart for that pin and put a spade connector on the wire. All good now. I had to remove the battery and battery box to get at the ABS connector. I then reconnected the battery with jumper cables to do the testing.
Total cost was $7.50 for some contact cleaner to clean the rest of the connections on the bottom of the fuse block.
Thanks a lot everyone. You saved me a bunch of money as I know if I had taken it in they would have replaced the abs module and that would not have fixed the problem.
Gasman thank you so much for posting your info you are star my friend, Leverd you too the way you went about it helped to understand what exactly I was looking for. Turn`s out every one it was wire 24 constant live that had broke, and the same as you Leverd I too had a voltage problem which would sent off my alarm, and blow me it`s cured that as well. You have a very happy bunny, thanks again guys.