Thanks for all the advice guys.

Not sure where to start re unplugging the aftermarket DVD player but will have a poke around it (in a methodical manner of course) one evening this week.

My wife has been driving around today and yesterday - normal short journeys - school run etc with the amplifer disconnected and touch wood, rub lucky rabbits foot - all seems to be ok ! No dead battery, no sweeping dials, no horrible clicking noises.... If I could only find my spare 10A fuses for the multimeter id have checked readings again tonight.

Test drove couple other MPVs this weekend as my wife has been so fed up with our Grand Voyager. As a result I seem to have fallen somewhat back in love with the old girl... (car, not wife) All the new cars with their "Automatic clutches" and tinny stereos make you realise just how good they actually are....

At the risk of going off topic - I have been spending more time than normal with the car last week or so and upon realising my sway bar bushes need replacing - also discovered what seems to be generous play in the passenger side front wheel. (It seems to rock "top to bottom" ??? A mechanic friend said he thought it felt like the steering rack another expensive sounding item !!!! While Im doing the sway bar bushes (am assuming I can do these from an inspection pit) anything I can look out for re the steering rack issue?

 

Hi
Anti roll bar D bushes are easy just one nut and bolt.
Steering rack is possible but you can get recon racks.

 

Hi all,

I have now obtained a second hand amplifier and installed it - all working no problems at all for the last week !!!!

.......Other than the yellow engine warning light came on today - together with oil light. Immediatelty drove carefully to (non main-dealer garage) - car seemed to drive fine - who put it on their diagnostic machine which said "P1776" oh-oh.....

After diagnostics disconnected - engine and oil lights went out seemingly of their own accord... I get the feeling this may only be short lived reprieve.

Thank you to all who gave time, help and assistance for the battery drain problem... do I need to be starting a new thread ?

Mark

 

Hi
There is a TSB for code P1776 and involves a software update for the TCM I recommend you get this checked as the software also helps prevent gearbox damage. Are you sure it's the oil light? as this code normally puts on the yellow malfunction light not the oil light.
Edit: sorry and well done on the battery drain and thanks for coming back with an update.

 

I also have a 02 Town & Country van. It will drain the battery over night. Battery and alternator test ok. So after testing circuits found that all is well if I pull the IOD fuse. not sure what all this circuit powers but that solves my battery drain. Tried unplugging the radio and removing it then putting the IOD fuse back in and still have the same problem. Battery dies. Even with the IOD fuse pulled I still hear a loud static for 1 sec when I first turn key on thru the speakers. Is there a factory amp hidden somewhere that has power with key on that can cause the drain?

 

Sounds like you have a glitched up microprocessor (in the body module).
This subject was aired many years ago here. All sorts of errors keep happening with apparently no connexion with each other. The general cure is usually to simply disconnect the battery -ve for a while until the glitches have gone.
But why is the micro getting glitched up anyhow?
You need to check the "hash" on the 12volt line as the battery is being charged by the alternator, the best way is by an oscilloscope. But this is outside the means of most amateur mechanics usually. There is only one place "hash" comes from -- the alternator, as it is charging the battery. In the old days it was called alternator whine because it made a whining noise on the radio on AM., esp. long wave.
The glitches can turn something on when car is unattended as even when ign. is "off" some circuits are always powered. (The background drain at ign. off on my battery is 35m/A). All alternators create some hash, they rely on the battery "clamping" the voltage to 13.8volt or 14.4volt in some cases. Poor batteries won't clamp the 12volt line properly.

You need to research fully on here about this strange effect first before anything else so you understand the modality of this whole odd business. This can save you money! Batteries are expensive and will be ruined by sulphation if not kept properly charged.

Meanwhile you CAN check for slightly poor joints throughout the battery circuit, not forgetting the ground strap from engine to chassis, and the connexion between battery -ve and body. If rusty, clean the steel with a file to bright metal on all sides then reassemble with a little grease to prevent it happening again. Check the goodness of the alternator output nut, be careful, it's brass*. Also check goodness of starter motor power connector. All should be good and tight as 400amps can flow through here.
*This nut is live all the time as long as battery is connected, and can deliver a lot of amps, causing a fire if you aren't careful with any tool.

I mentioned the body module. The connectors to this module can get slightly intermittent with time. Just push them in and out a few times to clear slight corrosion and see if there's any improvement. This intermittent fault really can seem like there's an evil gremlin in your GV. But DO read the history on here. There are many causes of "battery flat in the morning".

Leedsman.

 

Depends on the spec of your car but the IOD [Ignition off draw] 'factory-fuse' variously controls :

Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
Interior lights when the key is in the ignition
Power seats

According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :

Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

 

Going all the way back to the battery replacement.............
I have owned 2 voyagers since 2004 , and on both of them the battery was a complete nause. When both dials swing over to the right and slowly return...that is time for new battery.
Ended up finding the Optima redtop was the only one that really lasted the test of time........... others failed within weeks even though they came at a price and reccomended for the vehicle.Started failing with problems as you have described.
Also the central locking problem can be reset short term by disconnecting battery for 10 seconds / removing fuse..... It might last a week or 1 day .However a permanent fix is a main dealer reset ( as only dealers can ).
Also had an ignition barrel rebuilt by main dealer for £280 in 2012.
Chrysler only sold bags of 50 of everything needed for tumbler replacements and would have been more than £800 DIY. All ways round they gottcha.
Lastly ........somebody mentioned pressing the fob button a max of twice.............. In fact if you press it a 3rd time the car doors are alarmed but it kills the internal sensors so that you can leave a pet or person in it ( obviously not reccomended for long periods of time ).
I wish you well.............When they work they are the best drive around ! !

 

From UK-Hi- recent same issue with 2.8 CRD EX- 2 x New Batteries and Alarm still went off at 4 am!-
I've been told it could be the remarry of the fob, or the bonnet alarm switch.
We spent hundreds at stealer dealers last May on new alternator- this recent issue happening since the very hot spell we had!
I'll try the bonnet turret thing as it is loose and looks rusty. Work in progress!!

 

The ac coming on when l0