Hello, newbie here, please be kind. :-) Today I got an error message on my dash panel that says "bad key" when I try to turn the ignition on. The remote buttons still work to activate the doors, however. Our second key continues to work properly.

The key I've been using was purchased nearly a year ago on Amazon. It was advertised as a new replacement OEM keyless remote & key combo. (We purchased the car used and it came with only one key.) I had my local Chrysler dealer program the key and it has been working fine for 11 months.

Any chance the key just needs a new battery?

 

In short......

NO.

The battery only works The RKE Functions. The serial code for the key is ETCHED in during programming.

Considering the other key works, It is safe to assume the inop key is Junk.

 

Thanks for the reply, Djinn-n-Tonic. I was hoping for a less expensive solution, hence replacing the battery first to see if that did the trick, and sure enough that did nothing. I was expecting the key to last longer than 12 months. Is this to be expected, keys malfunctioning after a short time? If I spent twice as much and bought it from a dealer would I have any kind of a guarantee? I already checked with the seller I purchased the OEM replacement key, and I was told the warranty was only good for 90 days. This is the first car we've owned with a transponder-type key so we weren't expecting the expense that comes with them.

 

- have you disconnected your car battery ?
- have you had a flat car battery ?
- has the speedo needle swung across L to R in a weird manner ?

 

That would typically affect both keys, and wouldnt give you a Bad key message... The Win module would lock out completely.

I believe dealership keys are 12mos/ 12000 miles.

without making accusations, or implying anything of the sort, ..More common than not, this is a result of being dropped.....

 

Now that I think about it, this is probably the problem with my key. I know I've dropped it before, how recently I don't remember. I didn't think anything of it at the time. A (very expensive) lesson learned...

 

Truthfully,
This was Chryslers "Wizardry" at work. They are far to fragile for what they are expected to endure. If you were 5 years old, and had the key around your neck on a piece of string...Fine....but ......

ITS A CAR KEY.....It is going to get banged around....

Now....I wont try to "SELL" you on dealership parts, But from experience with EBAY specials, and Online warehouses,.....Sometimes they work out, Most times they dont.

"Just BuY one on EBAY, And save 75% on Dealer Price"....Fine if it works out, But if it doesnt, you are stuck with a Plastic glob that isnt even "Hefty" enough for a paper weight.

Just food for thought.

 

Just got this error message as well. Thank god I was in the driveway... Anyway, after a bit of swearing I was able to settle down enough to think clearly. From what I read here the fob was bad and a new one needed to be programmed. The problem for me was that I only have one. Dealer cost was $210 for a new one w/programming. Until then, I had a dead car in the driveway. I decided to take the fob apart and to my surprise, I instantly noticed that a solder connection had broken on a component- which makes sense; the key is under a lot of stress every time it is turned. Mine was also in pretty bad shape from use. I touched up the joint with a soldering iron and put it back together. It worked! There is also a recall out for the whole ignition unit (do a google search for "vehicle recalls" and have your VIN ready) which will give you 2 new fobs for free, so check to see if you qualify. I'm hoping I can limp this one for another couple weeks until I can get this van in to get it done. Hope this helps!