Hi guys,

First time visitor to the site. Looking for help already. Purchased an '08 T&C limited and am in need of doing rear brakes. Could anyone tell me or direct me to a web page that would show me the torque specs for the calipers, etc. Only know that the wheel spec is 95 lb/ft. Thanks if anyone can help, please.


Lou

 

That would Be.....Tight Ft/Lbs .

I'm sure there is a spec somewhere, But This is the first time in 30 years that I have heard that....

Its either tight or it isnt....

 

Been a GM/Ford guy up until wife wanted the Chrysler and every vehicle I've ever owned as such has had torque specs for various components such as engines, wheels, etc. I'm sure this one does too. In fact, I've had enough rotors warp since so many of the shops I've been to over the years don't use torque sticks or torque wrenches (takes up too much shop time) to set the lug nut torques properly. They too have said it's either tight or it's not and that's great to put it on but not great for proper install. The guys I've worked with on the track also live by torques specs. They just have the proper settings in place on their equipment to do it fast but right. I now ask the shops not to tighten the lug nuts too much and finish up the job (after a tire rotation, for example) with my torque wrench when I get back home. No more warped rotors. And with the family brakes, I definitely would like to use the factory recommended torque specs for those components.
Still looking for the specs so probably will need to find a shop manual if no one can help. Thanks if anyone does have the info available, though.

 

I was bored and couldn't sleep>>>>>>>


Caliper Brackets_ Front 125 ....Rear 74 (the big bolts)
Calipers 26 front AND rear

Wheels Aluminum 100 Steel 100

Welcome to the world of Chrysler rotors where NO amount of care taken with wheel torque will keep them from warping...lol

 

That's a great help, Tennessee. Thanks for the info.

Lou

 

Absolutely agreed, But that is more for the purpose of liability and "TECH INSPECTION" .

As TN mentioned, you can Torque a Chrysler rotor ALL DAY LONG, and not stop the warping.
As for Engines, and Transmissions, ANYTHING Press-FIT...Yes absolutely ...Torque is VITAL...Gaskets...same thing...Torwue is Vital...But the 4 or 5 lbs of inaccuracy on a Cast Iron Caliper bracket will Never be an Issue. As For wheels, If that is what you believe in, Then I have No right to tell you otherwise. It is your vehicle, and Your safety, and I wont interfere with that... Torque away..

Thru Experience I have found very little in common with wheels falling off or rotors warping because they werent Torqued, But instead just "GUNNED-ON". The problem comes in when The "NOT SO PRUDENT " Tech Isnt paying attention, or the wheel didnt sit straight and flat when he gunned it.....ALL else being equal.....It isnt going to fall off..Unless you FORGOT to tighten it...

 

That's why I will be installing EBC rotors which require proper wheel torque as per EBC's install instructions, or it will invalidate their 10,000 mi rotor warranty. Since there no longer are any rotor foundries to be found in the US, and the majority of rotors come from China, whose rotors do not have the composition of the EBC, Brembo, etc brand discs, one would experience rotor warp very quickly regardless of proper torque (as you say). You get what you pay for in this case.



Yeah, I wouldn't expect the wheel to fall off either without proper torque, as you say. Unless the not so prudent tech over gunned it and snapped a stud off (like happened on my F150 during a tire rotation). Also, real hard to spin the nuts off with a breaker bar when the gun has slammed the nuts on at over 150 lb/ft of torque (as measured while trying to get a wheel off my F150 that had gone flat and couldn't, requiring a tow to the tire shop to loosen the nuts and repair the flat). I just can't catch a break with the tire shops in my area it seems.
I think we will agree to disagree on the wheel torque/warping issue and its accompanying brake pedal pulsation as we've both had very opposite experiences on the subject and have learned different techniques along the way. Thanks for your input on that, though, as it's always enlightening to hear what others have gone through as well and we can always learn something new.

Lou

 

I wonder why the 10K. It sounds like an arbitrary number to me. Why not 25K? Answer....no matter what care is taken on the installers end, it's really a combination of driving habits and materials. I know plenty of people who don't think it's necessary to brake until they're 3 car lengths off the person in front of them...lol.

Me, I have Chrysler rotors on my truck. They have never warped. Going on 35K on this set of brakes. Last set went 55K. Didn't warp before either. Rotors didn't used to be so $hitty. Yes manufacturing is dead in this country.

8.1 million manuf jobs here. I wonder what it used to be??

 

Materials make a big difference. The asian rotors are made with recycled metals vs Brembo or EBC, and others which do not. This will affect the physical charactericstics of the rotor and its ability to tolerate heat and maintain its intended structural configuration.
The Chrysler rotors for our T&C are made in Mexico. You should found out where yours were made. Would be curious as it may give somewhat of a testament to other countries manufacturing quality.

I don't know but I remember when my Dad worked in the garment industry back in the 60's & 70's, at lunchtime the streets would flood with thousands of workers heading to lunch. Now that same area of the city sees nothing near that. Sadly, America's great manufacturing days are now in the past it seems.