Hi Guys! We'll it turned out that the crankshaft position sensor is need changing as well! I'm getting the parts for it tomorrow and we'll see! If anything else go wrong then I really willing to sell it no matter what now! I have spent a loads I mean a loads of money and even mor etime on it and when its running its feels like a dream but really a dream, no bangs no knocks, just going and barely take any fuel, till its cutts out! Then have to wait till its cooling down a bit like a bit under a 1/4 or a bit higher then its starts and driveable again till it gets a bit under half way then have to wait again! All the time on the scanner it comes up as the camshaft position sensors fault, but its brand new I mean it has just less then 5 miles on it! Any idea?? I reaching the point when I'm willing to get a spare can of petrol on the top of it and light it up let it burn! Getting feed up with it now! Wasn't doin it for nearly 2 months or so, everything was nice and smooth just like the new one! But now its started again and won't go away! HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!! Thanks Guys Frank

 

Tell me have you had it serviced as in, he usual oil change, diesel filter change etc ?

- fuel filter not tight
- fuel 'run back return'
- air leak into fuel line
- drive with the fuel filler cap off [vacuum ?] for a day

Have a look at the fuel supply M8- and stop using Shell Vpower Nitro Racing diesel

 

Why stop using V-Power (GTL) derv? It has twice the additive package as normal diesel and will clean and lube the pump and injectors better...

I've only every run my Avensis T-180 on the juice and also the Voyager...

 

proper diagnosis is the way forward.

First assume the sensor itself is OK. Then you will need someone with an automotive scope to attach as close to the sensor as possible and monitor the waveform until it cuts out. If thats OK then move the scope to the ECU plug and do the same. If not then look at the connector on the sensor and the sensor location to make sure it is seated properly.

If the only fault the ECU is detecting is the CPS then it can only be the sensor, the connectors, the wiring or the feed from the ECM/PCM relay in the IPM or the ECU. Though if it is the IPM feed you will most likely have other fault codes.

Regards
Richard

 

Hi Richard!
Thanks for all the help provided to me, but the crank sensor been changed and looks like it solved the problem! At least for now! I was waited and reved up till the fan went on at least 3 times and then tooked for a short drive to make sure I dont have to tow it for long and so far I can not complain about it! As a matter fact is sound like running a bit better as well no more little knocking sound anymore as it was before! Thats why I was using that Vpower fuel I tought that was the cause of it due to cheap fuel but now its running better then it was ! So anyway I will write up later to let everybody know how is it! But thanks again for all the help, much appriciated! I'm so happy for it now again!!! Frank

 

Re. this perplexing fault you have -- the wire ends to the cam pos. sensor etc. will have some kind of terminal on them, very commonly the so-called "crimp" terminals which aren't soldered but compressed onto the bare wire with a crimping tool. Now I've much experience with these if that's what you have on your Grand Voyager. These crimps are used widely in the electronic security business and others, and frankly, they were a pain. They are ok when all is clean and new, but after a few years can go bad due to subtle corrosion. This kind of thing is likely in an engine bay with all the heat and fumes. And remember the connector is shuddering all the time with engine idling and pulling. I found the best cure was to solder them using proper flux as well as solder-wire. So I should go back to that one you tightened up, and solder the neck of the connector with a good 25watt or so iron, some multicore solder and some flux. If it is a different kind of connector, examine it very carefully, with a magnifying glass if necessary for the slightest sign of looseness, corrosion. And THEN, look at the other end of that same wire, do the same checks.
It may or may not work, but I'm damned sure that ECU is telling you the truth!

Leedsman.

 

HI Guys!

Well just came back from a long holiday from Europe and so far I can not say anything about it! The van runs so smooth as it should be! No unexpected stops or stalls!I'm so happy with it! Thanks for all the help! So far since I have bought it I have droved just 200 miles under 10K so far and so far so good since I have changed the crank sensor! No more problems at all! Lovely drive! Cheers Frank

 

Your answer is in Septembers edition of Car Mechanics that I recommended in a thread some days ago. Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors are Synchronised together...
Magazine is a good read for DIY and advanced Mechanics..
Goggs..

 

HI Guys!
I just want You to know that after a trouble free driving since all this was done previously now I have a tiny problem again! Looks like 2 of the injectors are pissing again after KENT DIESEL refurb them for Ł:750.00.The 2nd cylinder and the 4th cylinder is giving a lot back through the injector leak test! So I just phone them to find out what option I have and they said since the warranty was only 1 year now I can pay the full price again! Is it nice of them??? Anyway what I'm thinking of get all four injectors from ebay for around Ł:150-ish range and that way I will have 2 spare just in case! By the way I will not recomend this place anymore if they doing the job like that! Can somebody suggest something for me what can I do?? Cheers Frank

 

I'd suggest giving Bosch Injectors in the Midlands : Swadlincote Diesel F.I.S. Co Ltd a call about refurbishing your injectors, I've used them before and been impressed by their service

Regards

Richard