My struggles with GV handbrake and MOT.
#11
06-14-2014, 04:41 PM
You only ever do it once in the lifetime of a car - usually after about 20-30 years, the ingress of crap into the braking area with no exit means an eternal ongoing issue with seized parts. The elongated hole in the back plate through which the articulating cam delivers the pull from the cable to the actuating lever is big enough to let a cat crawl in and unprotected by a rubber shield, this is the design issue with no work-around other than diligent maintenance or perhaps pop-riveting on an appropriate curved bespoke shield. A £20 small parts bag will solve most other in-hat issues, and in the case of the GV may need to be replaced every 5 instead of 30 years.
#12
06-14-2014, 04:54 PM
My researches indicate that "normal" brake shoes are fitted with .35 to .42 friction co-effiecient liners. However, racing pads have a co-efficient available up to .62. They wear out in one race, but no-one cares, they just replace.
Now if you think about it, shoes that are used for handbrake only don't ever need to slide on the drum's inner surface. They are applied with the footbrake on, and un-applied from rest. So unless one is doing handbrake turns every day, there should be no problem about wear.
I'm giving "Villiers Brake Shoes" of Brierly Hill, West Midlands a call on Monday to see what they have to say. If you want to know, its 01384 265 797.
Not heard of zinc dichromate plating before, but does sound interesting, must look it up pronto. I wonder where one would get that done?
Leedsman.
Now if you think about it, shoes that are used for handbrake only don't ever need to slide on the drum's inner surface. They are applied with the footbrake on, and un-applied from rest. So unless one is doing handbrake turns every day, there should be no problem about wear.
I'm giving "Villiers Brake Shoes" of Brierly Hill, West Midlands a call on Monday to see what they have to say. If you want to know, its 01384 265 797.
Not heard of zinc dichromate plating before, but does sound interesting, must look it up pronto. I wonder where one would get that done?
Leedsman.
#13
06-15-2014, 04:55 AM
Yes, I've thought about grinding shallow slots into the surface area of the drum. Of course the cables and linkages would still need to operate freely but I would think roughing up the drum would hold the Voyager on any incline.
#14
06-15-2014, 07:44 AM
I live minutes from here and travel this road[the point here is he at least did have a hand-brick] on a weekly basis. This portion is [7.5% on the strava segment gradient] a 1 in 4 gradient, my own formative years were at the bottom of a 1 in 3. My point is in a very long lifetime I have never needed to kamikaze any road journey till the GV. Its something we all cope with but the pre-realisation that once you commit down or uphill in any gear to these types of road in our GV's ramming it into a wall is in the event of power loss your only option.
AlanC, roughing the inside is the only practicable solution the Leedsman soft shoe idea in combination with grooves would be an excellent engineered improvement.
AlanC, roughing the inside is the only practicable solution the Leedsman soft shoe idea in combination with grooves would be an excellent engineered improvement.
Last edited by QinteQ; 06-15-2014 at 07:46 AM.
#16
06-16-2014, 04:54 AM
I have even thought about putting sticky-backed tread grip tape on the drum
----as long as the brake is only applied while stationary it SHOULD be ok ???
Nigel
----as long as the brake is only applied while stationary it SHOULD be ok ???Nigel
#18
06-20-2014, 02:52 PM
I have just recently changed my rear drum pads and i too have issues, BUT mine is only that i have either over adjusted the drum shoes via the slot on the rear of the backing plate or the sticky caliper i thought i got away with is still quite sticky. even with 1 side working its rock solid on an incline
, ive never had good travel on this car but its absolutely fine at holding on inclines but when pushed on gravel you can see it will only skid on the good side.
, ive never had good travel on this car but its absolutely fine at holding on inclines but when pushed on gravel you can see it will only skid on the good side.
#19
06-20-2014, 05:09 PM
I never found a way of avoiding the too much too little problem. Certainly if I put the car in drive or reverse with the handbrick on it will drive, and it should stall. If I apply more adjustment to the shoe [s] they will bind. In a non-sliding shoe arrangement you would have a very short 'bedding in' period and the brake linings naturally grind down to the precise drum diameter reducing the risk of the shoes grabbing. In my case the whole thing will wait till next year, I have about 11 months test yet to run, but it still annoys the hell oughta me that I can't get it right.
#20
06-21-2014, 03:36 AM
Seems to me this handbrake design on the Chrysler GV is just as bad as anything from the 1960s and 70s in Britain. Adding insult to injury, astronomical prices are being charged for parts from the maker. Such an anomaly when other parts of this vehicle are so clever.
Being constructive in my criticism, I would...
1). Use bigger, better drum brakes as mentioned by Qinteq, possibly with softer more-friction liners.
2). Eliminate the stretchy cable idea, replace with rods and swivels, together with a balancer/adjuster available inside the car. Swivels big enough, and protected from the weather
3). Properly protect the drum adjusters from the weather with rubber boots.
4). Make sure the handbrake can lock the wheels under any circumstances.
Leedsman.
Being constructive in my criticism, I would...
1). Use bigger, better drum brakes as mentioned by Qinteq, possibly with softer more-friction liners.
2). Eliminate the stretchy cable idea, replace with rods and swivels, together with a balancer/adjuster available inside the car. Swivels big enough, and protected from the weather
3). Properly protect the drum adjusters from the weather with rubber boots.
4). Make sure the handbrake can lock the wheels under any circumstances.
Leedsman.