Hi guys
I've had a battery kill switch fitted to my 98 grand voyager for a few years and came across a real problem with it the other day.
The kill switch is one you put a red key in to turn it on and is located in my front bumper this was fine until a little ****bag decided to steal the key while I was at some traffic lights (cheers dude)
Anyway I want to move the switch inside the car but still be able to use my central locking once I've isolated the battery
Is there any reason I can't separate the feed from the c/locking and run a permant live to it allowing me to isolate the rest of the car but leave that circuit active so I can still use my fob as my door locks are fubar.
Any help will be greatly received
Cheers
Edubcee

 

Hmm,

I suspect that won't be as easy as it sounds/looks on paper, as to drive the central locking you need the ECU to function (remember the fob is electronically coded to the car, so lots of handshake and confirmation the fob is right, then it sends the unlock code round the CANBUS to the door servos) and then the various components related to door locking around the vehicle.

I guess what you *could* do is put some sort of aftermarket fob/remote door transmitter/receiver pair in and wire that direct to the driver door servo. That way you can use an aftermarket fob to unlock the initial driver door alone, open that and switch your master kill switch to then re-energise the rest of the van so you can then use the factory central locking to unlock the other doors.

I have to ask. Why a master kill switch? Do you have serious problems with battery drain? And can't you just remove the kill switch key in either position, so it's not left in-situ?

 

Hi
Yeah battery drain is a problem as I use another car whilst working which is 7 days at a time.
I did think I'd run into some problems like that but I'm not to fussed about having a factory fob just as long as it has one
Might have a play soon and hopefully not short everything out
Thanks for the reply
Edubcee

 

No problem!
It shouldn't be too difficult to do, this sort of kit will do the job you want:

UNIVERSAL*REMOTE* KEYLESS CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING KIT | eBay

You'll end up not needing the servo's (They're handy to keep for projects!) but that includes the remote and the control box, so the basic procedure would be:

Direct (via an inline fuse for protection) connection to battery for the locking kit power supply, so it's got constant power. Then you need to take the door apart, and find the servo, it'll have 1 wire going to it (perhaps two, if two then one will then go to ground), you then need to trace a wire all the way back to where you can fit the locking kit control box, and feed that as the output/servo control. The idea is that when you trigger the 3rd party locking kit, it will just directly drive the existing door servo. Once that's done/you're in power up and you should be good to go.

It might be tricky moving the isolator switch, as the cables will need to be very thick gauge since they carry everything for the car, charging, power, starter, etc, so they will be two very thick cables you're wanting to feed into the cabin and there usually isn't very large holes in the firewall to poke more cables through, so that might be the trickiest part of this.

Good luck and please do feed us back on how you get on (with pictures if possible!)

 

Cool been looking at a few wiring diagrams and might be able to do it with all the stock parts but will keep the aftermarket plan as a backup (I'm a tight a**)
Batt isolator wiring shouldn't be a problem as I'm lucky enough to have a lot of cable at my disposal
If any of this works I'll post how its done in case anyone else fancies doing it

 

Might be quicker/easier/cheaper to replace the original switch complete with its key, and refit somewhere hidden or semi-hidden. Or of course fit one with a totally removable key
Leedsman.

 

I did think of doing that but my kid is at the wriggly wants to jump head first out of my arms stage so being able to pop the doors off the remote is high up on my list
Cheers for the input tho much appreciated

 

Just buy a new isolator and use the new key. Its only a dowel and peg you could make one easy. BTW leaving access to any/everyone is a big risk. pulling the IOD fuse 1/2 out of its holder is the normal method for reducing IgntionOffDraw for mitigating airport / vacation starting.

 

But that's not the point and I have spare keys.
The point is i want to try something and asked for pre emptive advice on doing it lol and it would make my life easier if it works ( stop car open bonnet blah iod repeat)
Just thought someone may have done this before for the same stupid reason I'm doing it
Cheers
Edubcee

 

I have and use a big red key, mine is hidden. No is the answer to your question, once isolated it is just that .. .. .. no alarm function or door locks. The Q&D would be similar to Andy's suggestion a cheepo secondary alarm serviced by its own battery but you would still lose the Chrysler alarm & central locking. My suggestion park and lock x3 doors, pocket the big red key, key lock your door, switch on the cheepo secondary alarm with its own keyfob, walk away.