Hi Leedsman...thx for the info. You are right, the 2001 CRD uses the same inboard drums for the handbrake, and in the past I've had problems with the linkage seizing... however in this case it's 100% definitely not the handbrake..that was my first thought when it happened, everything in there is spot on.

It's definitely the caliper, because after it happened, when I stripped it I could see the new pads had been dragging, and the copper grease on the back was all dried up. I did remove the drum again to double check the handbrake.... no dust no nothing.. it's the caliper for sure.

Mat

 

This also happened to Mike's voyager and we fitted new pistons to the rear callipers which cured it. Was very surprised to find out that the pistons are a kind of plastic!

Regards

Richard

 

Answer to the expense of replacing Calipers is if you can get new seals and replace them yourself, but use red brake grease on reassembly and this will help on squaring them up when brake not pressed.
These square seals seem to be the issue as you will probably notice that when renewing the pads, then squeezing piston back in, the caliper/piston assembly just goes back on with little or no clearance, so without that initial clearance the seals may be locking on first application of brake.
Its a issue that won't go away on these cars so if you do any work regarding pushing pistons in, give it a test run afterwards. This includes brake shoes as well.

 

Yes I see that new piston kits come with chrome pistons & state that the originals are ceramic ?

Is the problem the seals or pistons or both ?

You can get the seal kits without pistons much cheaper. I guess if the pistons are ceramic there's nothing to go wrong ??

As you have stated goggs, the problem seems to be that the pistons have to be pushed right back into the caliper to get it together with new pads... although I've probably put three sets of rear pads on during the 13 years we've had the car & it's never happened before ?

 

The drivers side rear brake is also sticking. I've replaced both rear calipers, and all 4 brake hoses. I thought it had solved the problem, but just today while driving back from the dealer to have my ignition module recall done I smelled that awful burning brake smell and sure enough the divers side rear brake is doing it again. What else could be causing this? It's only the drivers side rear that is having the problem. The e-brake cable is not causing this as it moves freely.

 

copper grease or silicone grease?

Certain types of grease can cause the rubber on the sliders to expand and make the caliper drag

Regards
Richard

 

I didn't add any grease. The calipers came already put together and the sliders were already pre-greased. I guess I could pull them again and make sure that there is still grease on them.

 

I've always assumed there are usually two different types of grease. One silicone for the sliders & pins and a different one for the hydraulic seals & piston assembly. In fact the seal and piston paste is not really needed, because reassembly is within a short time of rebuild. The lubrication of piston and seals will be fine with only a good quality brake fluid. Its really only when the units are assembled at factory level and stored for years [corrosion inhibitor / seal preserver / lubricant] that the £3 delivered Molykote type piston grease is needed.

 

Here's your piston and seal grease.

 

Had the same problem two days before driving the length of France to get home, replaced the N/S/R Calliper with a service exchange one from a Motor Factors in Southampton, had no problems since, then ordered two 15inch brake hoses from the same place and replaced the whole rear brake pipe system by making my own metal pipes, cost £20 against Chryslers £80 a side