I'm going to replace the door speakers with some good 6.5" woofers. I'm concerned about getting good quality wires ran. I don't want to use the small (18? 20 awg?) stock wires.
I haven't studied the doors a great deal, but from what little I have it appears that there are some connectors that could be tricky to get past.

I need to install a line output converter. Is there a point anywhere in the system where the speaker wires are all together and accessible?

I need to run a large gauge wire from the battery to the interior. Any chance I'll find an unused grommet in the firewall? Or an existing passage with enough space to run a large diameter wire?

Thanks

 

I'm curious too, although I was already pleasantly surprised about the sound quality in my 2002 Voyager, it can always be better.
I assume its for your 2004 T&C? which is probably roughly the same as my 2002 Voyager I guess...
So I follow this thread

 

Here's some info that might be useful
http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/3...-original.html

 

I stumbled upon a lot of good info on crutchfield's site:

2003-2004 Chrysler Town and Country with Infinity with DVD Wiring Information

Based on that - the wires upstream from the on-speaker amps should be line level. If that's the case I won't need an LOC. I can just connect rca wires directly.

It's going to be a week or two before I can start working on it, but this is the type of info that will help speed up the process.

 

My components are done. It took a lot of time, but there's a major improvement over those muffled stock speakers. The midrange is much better at all volumes and the clarity at high volume is a totally different experience. I have a 6.5" woofer in the door and a tweeter in a surface mount pod that's on top of the door panel.
I have a few pics if anyone's interested.

The electrical part of the wiring wasn't much of a problem, but physically routing everything took a lot of time.
I ran 12 awg for my main speaker wire starting in the doors, coming out the door through the rubber boot, then out of that and down through a grommet that plugs a hole that seems to have been used to inject foam during manufacturing. Wire goes in and up over the kick panel then down and under the door sill trim, around the b-pillar, under the sliding door sill trim then tucked under the plastic panels covering the walls in the cargo area which is where the amp is.

I found a perfect grommet to run my power wire through -- it's right behind the gas pedal if you're looking from the cabin side. It's routed in a similar path as the speaker wire -- although it was a hassle to get it to fit under the sliding door sill trim.

Signal wire and remote turn on wire were tapped behind the HU - I used 16 awg for that. It too was routed under the sill trim. I used an LOC which is working well.

I found an unused screw for ground in the rear pillar, driver's side. I actually drilled a new hole for the screw a couple inches away and wire brushed the paint off the area to ensure a good connection to ground.

If you're not an audio enthusiast I would imagine the time req'd for this upgrade would be hard to justify, but for a sound geek like me, it is well worth it.

Sub's going in next Most of the work is done for that. I just need to access the rear speakers for signal. I'll be adding bass blockers for the rear speakers too.

 

You can post pics here under "manage attachments"

 

Speaker wire coming from door --


The hole used to feed it into kick panel --




Speaker wire taped to hanger to assist in routing through expanding foam in kick panel cavity:


Crossover location -- before 6.5" installation:

 

-oops-