Sliding door wont open at all
#1
02-01-2016, 04:38 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
Sliding door wont open at all
Sliding door wont open at all
Due the doors working intermittently i decided to have a go at fixing this and after watching a couple of youtube videos i felt knowledgeable enough to try it myself
. No success. Drivers side rear door wont open at all manually even using brute force. I dont know whether i didnt put the black cover on correctly. I mean the cover next to the wheel/cog and it feels stuck or jammed If i press over head consol button it clicks door slightly open and it gets stuck
Due the doors working intermittently i decided to have a go at fixing this and after watching a couple of youtube videos i felt knowledgeable enough to try it myself
. No success. Drivers side rear door wont open at all manually even using brute force. I dont know whether i didnt put the black cover on correctly. I mean the cover next to the wheel/cog and it feels stuck or jammed If i press over head consol button it clicks door slightly open and it gets stuck
#2
02-01-2016, 10:19 AM
there are about 70 pages of diagnostic tests in the manual for the power sliding doors. The down side is you need to know the fault codes as to why the door isn't opening.
Listening to my doors, there is quite a complicated sequence of clicks and whirrs as the door unlatches and moves, I haven't seen the sequence written down though.
It could still be a wiring issue or something could be jammed, but until you have the codes read then there is not much in the way of advice I can offer I'm afraid.
If you are near cambridgeshire then I can read the codes and have a look at it, but not this week as I've got a bugger of a week at work.
Ricahrd
Listening to my doors, there is quite a complicated sequence of clicks and whirrs as the door unlatches and moves, I haven't seen the sequence written down though.
It could still be a wiring issue or something could be jammed, but until you have the codes read then there is not much in the way of advice I can offer I'm afraid.
If you are near cambridgeshire then I can read the codes and have a look at it, but not this week as I've got a bugger of a week at work.
Ricahrd
#3
02-01-2016, 03:57 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
there are about 70 pages of diagnostic tests in the manual for the power sliding doors. The down side is you need to know the fault codes as to why the door isn't opening.
Listening to my doors, there is quite a complicated sequence of clicks and whirrs as the door unlatches and moves, I haven't seen the sequence written down though.
It could still be a wiring issue or something could be jammed, but until you have the codes read then there is not much in the way of advice I can offer I'm afraid.
If you are near cambridgeshire then I can read the codes and have a look at it, but not this week as I've got a bugger of a week at work.
Ricahrd
Listening to my doors, there is quite a complicated sequence of clicks and whirrs as the door unlatches and moves, I haven't seen the sequence written down though.
It could still be a wiring issue or something could be jammed, but until you have the codes read then there is not much in the way of advice I can offer I'm afraid.
If you are near cambridgeshire then I can read the codes and have a look at it, but not this week as I've got a bugger of a week at work.
Ricahrd
#4
02-02-2016, 06:59 PM
played around with my doors for over year.. finally pulled panel off, replaced lock actuator and lubed all moving parts in the door... then took plastic chain apart at bottom of door and found broken wire... repaired that and wow... back to new... ... go for it and good luck
#5
02-03-2016, 08:07 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
played around with my doors for over year.. finally pulled panel off, replaced lock actuator and lubed all moving parts in the door... then took plastic chain apart at bottom of door and found broken wire... repaired that and wow... back to new... ... go for it and good luck
#6
02-03-2016, 08:12 AM
Going from what you describe, it sounds like the lock actuator that's the problem. This is the first clunk/click you hear when you trigger the doors and is also manually released when you pull at the handle.
This is the part towards the rear of the sliding door and is the most 'normal' part of these doors as it works in a similar way to normal car doors in that you have a question mark hook that rotates, so when in the closed position the hook at the top of the question mark is curled round and holds onto the U piece physically attached to the door frame.
By your description I'm wondering if that isn't releasing when you are pulling the handle or pressing the button. Can you hear that click or feel it release when you pull at the handle? If not then either the mechanical linkage is broken or jammed. I think you'd have to try and take the inside door panel off to try and free this, but not sure how easy that would be.
The sequence I've noted for unlock is:
clunk then whirr from rear of sliding door, this is the question-mark releasing and turning to the open position
Whirr as the motor along the base of the door then retracts the door
click from the base of the door as it reaches fully open and the latch pin drops over the ramped pin to hold it open
And for lock/close:
click from the base of the door as the latch pin lifts
Whirr as the motor moves the door
When it reaches closed you'll hear an initial click from the front of the door (unsure what this is tbh!) then a click from the rear of the door then another whirr. This whirr is the motor driving the question-mark plate around which pulls the rear of the door in and binds it to the chassis.
Hope all that helps! (Now I read it back, I sound mad!)
This is the part towards the rear of the sliding door and is the most 'normal' part of these doors as it works in a similar way to normal car doors in that you have a question mark hook that rotates, so when in the closed position the hook at the top of the question mark is curled round and holds onto the U piece physically attached to the door frame.
By your description I'm wondering if that isn't releasing when you are pulling the handle or pressing the button. Can you hear that click or feel it release when you pull at the handle? If not then either the mechanical linkage is broken or jammed. I think you'd have to try and take the inside door panel off to try and free this, but not sure how easy that would be.
The sequence I've noted for unlock is:
clunk then whirr from rear of sliding door, this is the question-mark releasing and turning to the open position
Whirr as the motor along the base of the door then retracts the door
click from the base of the door as it reaches fully open and the latch pin drops over the ramped pin to hold it open
And for lock/close:
click from the base of the door as the latch pin lifts
Whirr as the motor moves the door
When it reaches closed you'll hear an initial click from the front of the door (unsure what this is tbh!) then a click from the rear of the door then another whirr. This whirr is the motor driving the question-mark plate around which pulls the rear of the door in and binds it to the chassis.
Hope all that helps! (Now I read it back, I sound mad!)
#7
02-03-2016, 08:38 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
Going from what you describe, it sounds like the lock actuator that's the problem. This is the first clunk/click you hear when you trigger the doors and is also manually released when you pull at the handle.
This is the part towards the rear of the sliding door and is the most 'normal' part of these doors as it works in a similar way to normal car doors in that you have a question mark hook that rotates, so when in the closed position the hook at the top of the question mark is curled round and holds onto the U piece physically attached to the door frame.
By your description I'm wondering if that isn't releasing when you are pulling the handle or pressing the button. Can you hear that click or feel it release when you pull at the handle? If not then either the mechanical linkage is broken or jammed. I think you'd have to try and take the inside door panel off to try and free this, but not sure how easy that would be.
The sequence I've noted for unlock is:
clunk then whirr from rear of sliding door, this is the question-mark releasing and turning to the open position
Whirr as the motor along the base of the door then retracts the door
click from the base of the door as it reaches fully open and the latch pin drops over the ramped pin to hold it open
And for lock/close:
click from the base of the door as the latch pin lifts
Whirr as the motor moves the door
When it reaches closed you'll hear an initial click from the front of the door (unsure what this is tbh!) then a click from the rear of the door then another whirr. This whirr is the motor driving the question-mark plate around which pulls the rear of the door in and binds it to the chassis.
Hope all that helps! (Now I read it back, I sound mad!)
This is the part towards the rear of the sliding door and is the most 'normal' part of these doors as it works in a similar way to normal car doors in that you have a question mark hook that rotates, so when in the closed position the hook at the top of the question mark is curled round and holds onto the U piece physically attached to the door frame.
By your description I'm wondering if that isn't releasing when you are pulling the handle or pressing the button. Can you hear that click or feel it release when you pull at the handle? If not then either the mechanical linkage is broken or jammed. I think you'd have to try and take the inside door panel off to try and free this, but not sure how easy that would be.
The sequence I've noted for unlock is:
clunk then whirr from rear of sliding door, this is the question-mark releasing and turning to the open position
Whirr as the motor along the base of the door then retracts the door
click from the base of the door as it reaches fully open and the latch pin drops over the ramped pin to hold it open
And for lock/close:
click from the base of the door as the latch pin lifts
Whirr as the motor moves the door
When it reaches closed you'll hear an initial click from the front of the door (unsure what this is tbh!) then a click from the rear of the door then another whirr. This whirr is the motor driving the question-mark plate around which pulls the rear of the door in and binds it to the chassis.
Hope all that helps! (Now I read it back, I sound mad!)
#8
02-03-2016, 08:45 AM
Sorry fella, just noticed you did mention that in first post!
Ah ok, so not the latching mechanism, so yes sounds like an obstruction if the door motor starts to move it then stops when it gets too much resistance.
That's going to be tricky to fix, all I can think of is crack it open as much as you can and then use a variety of sticks to poke in there to move it around until it frees.
I guess there are two parts that might be jamming, either the top black plastic cover for the motor or the bottom plastic 'chain' that carries the wires. Either way same solution, keep poking at it until you get some movement. What I sometimes do with things like that is set my phone into video camera record mode and try to angle that in with the light on to see if I can see the obstruction on the video.
Good luck!
Ah ok, so not the latching mechanism, so yes sounds like an obstruction if the door motor starts to move it then stops when it gets too much resistance.
That's going to be tricky to fix, all I can think of is crack it open as much as you can and then use a variety of sticks to poke in there to move it around until it frees.
I guess there are two parts that might be jamming, either the top black plastic cover for the motor or the bottom plastic 'chain' that carries the wires. Either way same solution, keep poking at it until you get some movement. What I sometimes do with things like that is set my phone into video camera record mode and try to angle that in with the light on to see if I can see the obstruction on the video.
Good luck!
#9
02-04-2016, 05:33 AM
still think broken wire under chain... lots of youtubes on this... with doors closed and locked , if all doors unlock fine with key fob, door panel button, and overhead, then actuator is fine... otherwise replace... sit on ground with door open, remove plastic cover over door gear and slowly pull plastic chain apart.. careful and slow but it will go back together fine if you dont rush, then inspect each wire for break somewhere... 90% of time it is in there
#10
02-04-2016, 06:51 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
still think broken wire under chain... lots of youtubes on this... with doors closed and locked , if all doors unlock fine with key fob, door panel button, and overhead, then actuator is fine... otherwise replace... sit on ground with door open, remove plastic cover over door gear and slowly pull plastic chain apart.. careful and slow but it will go back together fine if you dont rush, then inspect each wire for break somewhere... 90% of time it is in there
Thats another thing, my key fobs dont work and am taking them to dealer in summer to get coded
Honestly i love this car so much and hate it same time. If not for the small issues it has i would use it as my daily driver. I enjoy it that much. But the white smoke on start up is frankly embarrassing
Hopefully get them all sorted this summerIssues
White smoke on start up
Temperemantal doors work when they want
Black smoke when accelerating
Reverse lights not working
Folding mirrors dont fold
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