Urgent! Slipping, noisy transmission
#1
01-07-2013, 10:11 AM
Urgent! Slipping, noisy transmission
Urgent! Transmission slippin, not engaging.
I have a 2002 Caravan SE. 3.3L V6.
A couple weeks ago my transmission would take a few seconds before engaging into D or R.
Saturday it started a sizzling noise on the right side between the battery and exhaust.
I had to drive it back for about 100 kms. on country roads and higway.
I made it back at 80km/h at 4000RPM.
Now the noise is louder and it shifts but after 10 seconds. When I stop, it takes forever to go forward again as it is stuck in neutral.
The noise is present even in Park or neutral.
I have done extensive research on the net and I read all kind of stories.
Input/output speed sensors (I doubt that they would be noisy).
TCM Transmission Control Module. (Would that make a sizzling noise?).
Shift Solenoid Pack? (Could be noisy, but that loud?).
Governor Pressure Solenoid (is it the sane than above?)
Yes the engine light is on but it came on only halfway on my trip back.
No, I don't have no codes as I don't have much money for a diagnostic right now.
I am a disabled father of two with no budget and can't go without my van.
Please Help. Thank You.
A couple weeks ago my transmission would take a few seconds before engaging into D or R.
Saturday it started a sizzling noise on the right side between the battery and exhaust.
I had to drive it back for about 100 kms. on country roads and higway.
I made it back at 80km/h at 4000RPM.
Now the noise is louder and it shifts but after 10 seconds. When I stop, it takes forever to go forward again as it is stuck in neutral.
The noise is present even in Park or neutral.
I have done extensive research on the net and I read all kind of stories.
Input/output speed sensors (I doubt that they would be noisy).
TCM Transmission Control Module. (Would that make a sizzling noise?).
Shift Solenoid Pack? (Could be noisy, but that loud?).
Governor Pressure Solenoid (is it the sane than above?)
Yes the engine light is on but it came on only halfway on my trip back.
No, I don't have no codes as I don't have much money for a diagnostic right now.
I am a disabled father of two with no budget and can't go without my van.
Please Help. Thank You.
#2
01-08-2013, 11:06 AM
I'm not as familiar with the petrols as the diesels but I guess the transmissions are pretty much the same.
Put very simply, the transmission has a mechanical side and an electrical side.
The mechanical side is operated by the gear select lever and will give you Park, Neutral, 2nd and reverse. The electrical side provides the changes up and down from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc, by operating electric valves in the gearbox.
First thing to check is the fluid level and condition. Everyone says the fluid should be a nice cherry red, but I've never seen it that colour except when it first goes in!. It shouldn't be black and smell burnt though.
If the fluid looks OK then unplug all the electrical connectors from the gearbox, this will force it into limp home mode and allow you to check the "mechanical" part without the "electrical" part causing any interference.
If with all the plugs taken out and the fluid level correct and fresh it still takes 10 seconds to go into 2nd or reverse then I'm afraid your gearbox is buggered. A rebuild will cost a fair bit and I would recommend getting a replacement box out of a scrap car. Try getting prices from various scrap yards and check ebay as the prices will vary considerably and then budget for about 8 hours labour to replace it.
Regards
Richard
Put very simply, the transmission has a mechanical side and an electrical side.
The mechanical side is operated by the gear select lever and will give you Park, Neutral, 2nd and reverse. The electrical side provides the changes up and down from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc, by operating electric valves in the gearbox.
First thing to check is the fluid level and condition. Everyone says the fluid should be a nice cherry red, but I've never seen it that colour except when it first goes in!. It shouldn't be black and smell burnt though.
If the fluid looks OK then unplug all the electrical connectors from the gearbox, this will force it into limp home mode and allow you to check the "mechanical" part without the "electrical" part causing any interference.
If with all the plugs taken out and the fluid level correct and fresh it still takes 10 seconds to go into 2nd or reverse then I'm afraid your gearbox is buggered. A rebuild will cost a fair bit and I would recommend getting a replacement box out of a scrap car. Try getting prices from various scrap yards and check ebay as the prices will vary considerably and then budget for about 8 hours labour to replace it.
Regards
Richard
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