Something is draining the battery but I have no idea what. We replaced the battery with a brand new one (mopar) but that went also empty after we parked the car for a while.

Note: The blower relay/switch/motor was somehow damaged after the garage replaced the fuel pump with a new one. They did install it backwards first, and fixed it after we noticed that there was no fuel pressure on the injectors. Can this have become worse and be the root problem of this new electrical problem?

What should I start checking first?

p.s. We can start the car with jumper cables connected to another car, and it drives, but the dashboard lights are not solid (flashing on/off). Like it doesn't have enough power.

 

need a volt meter digital that will get down to 35 mili amps then U will need a wire diagram so u can trace down circuits to see what has the power still on it keeping it alive
then once I have all that I will give u a procedure on how its done to see whats going on This will take some time as well it wont be a 5 min fix.

 

Thanks. We have a Fluke multi meter and there is a wire diagram in the manual (sorry forgot the name of the book) I have, which is what I can use I presume?

 

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty milliamperes (0.005 to 0.030 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. The thirty milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other electronic modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the junction block. This will reduce battery discharging.

Excessive IOD can be caused by:

◦Electrical items left on
◦Faulty or improperly adjusted switches
◦Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components
◦An internally shorted generator
◦Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.

1.Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out) This may take up to three minutes. If the vehicle is equipped with a 4.7L engine combined with a 45RFE electronic transmission, either remove the transmission fuse from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) or allow the electronic timer function of the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to automatically shut off (time out) This may take up to twenty minutes.
2.Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
3.Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4.Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes (twenty minutes with the 45RFE transmission), or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment on the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
5.After about three minutes (twenty minutes with the 45RFE transmission), the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment on the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then in the junction block (refer to Power Distribution Center and Junction Block in the Component Index of Wiring Diagrams for fuse and circuit breaker identification) one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. This will isolate each circuit and identify the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charging System in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Charging System to diagnose the condition. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6.Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty milliamperes (0.030 ampere) If the draw exceeds thirty milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

 

Thanks. This will keep my busy for a while and should eventually enable me to locate that circuit with a shortage. The only problem I have now is that the car is miles away from me, but I hope to get started next week at the latest.

p.s. We have a Haynes Repair Manual (96-99) and I hope that we can use it for the wire diagrams?

 

Progress update:

We think to have located the problem. The blower motor resistor has a shortage. We ordered a new one (for 15.20 Euro) and that should arrive here tomorrow. We also (of course) checked the blower motor, by connecting it to the battery and that seems ok (spins fast).

But removing the old resistor, from the fireboard, is a bit tricky since our car runs on bi-fuel and there's a rather large LPG part (vaporizer) connected to two coolant hoses that is sitting in the way. Well. And not knowing which clip to push in/lift (a small one and a larger one on the black connector) but with the new one in hand tomorrow... we should get the job done in no time. Hopefully.

Update:

We had to remove some parts, but the new blower motor resistor is fitted and thus that can't be the problem anymore.