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  #1  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:48 PM
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Default no start 97 cirrus 2.5L

Hello everyone!I'm new to this forum & wonder if you can help me.I have a 1997 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5L & it has 177,000 miles but is in good shape.It won't start.No spark.No injector pulse either.It turns over but won't start.I can hear the fuel pump energize when turning key to run position.I hooked up my cheap scan tool & there is no RPM signal when turning engine over.I can tell the timing belt didn't break as there is a certain free wheeling noise an engine makes when the timing belt is broken.No codes stored in computer eitherI noticed a small mouse nest in the v of the engine(under intake)but not seeing any chewed wires.The wires & plugs have been changed & the distributor looks fairly new(clean & silver).Any ideas would really help me.I have read that aftermarket distributors have issues,so maybe this distributor is bad but why no injector pulse?Please help
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:30 AM
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2002 Chrysler Sebring
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ASD relay?
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:19 PM
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I bypassed the ASD relay & got power to one side of injectors but no spark or injector pulse.According to what I found on Alldata(went to library),the ASD relay won't energize until it "sees" a crank & cam inputs.So it does not energize(ASD relay).I don't have a scope to check the cam or crank wave patterns,so I'm stuck.The problem can be 3 thinks-bad distributor,bad crank sensor or skipped timing belt.There could be a broken wire but haven't seen any during my time under the hood.I decided to replace crank sensor as its cheaper than the distributor & the distributor looks fairly new.The crank sensor is original & a small piece is stuck in the transmissionI broke the sensor trying to remove it.I was very careful but its cold in my garage & the sensor never been removed.I plan on punching the small bit into transmission(flywheel area) & will remove inspection cover for torque converter to retrieve the small piece.It is a PITA to get at this sensorI hope this fixes the car.I hope I don't have to sync the cam & crank sensor as I don't have that function with my cheap scan toolAny others think this will fix it?Any suggestions
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:45 PM
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What a nightmareI finally got the old sensor(crank sensor) to come out.Actually I punched it through one of the holes in the flywheel.Now I will have to remove inspection cover to retrieve small broken pieceI had to remove the top part of the engine including the distributor to gain clear access to the crank sensor.The valve cover gaskets are leaking anyways & the spark plug tube seals are leaking oil into spark plug holes so I may replace those if the customer wants.Now I broke the new crank sensor trying to put it in & another one won't be in until tommorrowLuckily O'reilly will cover it even though I broke itI do alot of Business with them.Can I test the crank & cam signal with my volt meter?I don't have a scope but if I set the volt meter to volts,can I accurately check the signals while cranking?Won't the signals be like .5 volts or something similar?I'm going to try this(connecting the connectors together & back probing the signal wire)to see if I can get a switching voltage or not.I'll keep everyone updated.Any ideas guys(or girls)?
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:50 PM
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I forgot to add that in order to properly install the crank sensor,the transmission mount next to sensor has to be removed to align sensor in hole.Just the plate that mounts to transmission has to be removed(thats how I broke the crank sensor).I hope this crank sensor fixes this no-start problem so I can get this car out of my 1 car garage
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:37 PM
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You should see a voltage varying between about 0.5 and 5.0 volts as the crankshaft turns past the sensor. This may register as an AC voltage on your voltmeter, but it is really a variable DC voltage.
If you have browsed these boards, you will see that on this engine, it is usually necessary to replace the crank sensor when the cam sensor (distributor) is replaced. Not sure why that is.
There should have been a code with the bad sensor. Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcotter0579 View Post
You should see a voltage varying between about 0.5 and 5.0 volts as the crankshaft turns past the sensor. This may register as an AC voltage on your voltmeter, but it is really a variable DC voltage.
If you have browsed these boards, you will see that on this engine, it is usually necessary to replace the crank sensor when the cam sensor (distributor) is replaced. Not sure why that is.
There should have been a code with the bad sensor. Good luck.
Thanks.Correction-you don't have to remove transmission mount to install crank sensor.Well,installed new crank sensor & it fixed the no-start issueI checked before I put the intake back on.The customer declined to do a full tune-up as well as fix the leaking valve cover gaskets(shes selling the car).It was a PITA *** to replace that crank sensor & I have been fixing cars professionally for 10 years now.It would have been nice to have had others post a response but oh well.On the corvette forum,I would've got many responses.Thanks again dcotter
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:10 PM
 
 
 
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1997, 25, 97, belt, broken, chrysler, cirrus, crank, distributor, fuel, replace, sensor, spark, start, timing, wet

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