95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

Just yesterday, I acquired an old 1995 Chrysler LHS for next to nothing ($500). Just needed brakes and new tie rods and an alignment. Also need to replace the trans pan gasket, it leaks about a quart a month.

It has an aftermarket remote start/security system in it. Yesterday and early this morning it starts up perfectly (it was cold this morning). 8 hours later, I go to leave work and I pressed the remote start button and got to the car and I hear the blower motor running but no motor.

I turn the key to start the car myself, it cranks and cranks and cranks. Tries to catch but no go. I hit the gas to open the throttle thinking maybe the car has an IAC (I know nothing about the specific motor design of an LHS yet) and it catches a little harder this time but doesn't start. I let it sit for a bit and try again and this time it starts after a few tries, runs slightly rough for a bit (about 30 seconds), then smooths out. I was able to drive it home without ANY issue. It also will start up perfectly fine just after shutting it off.

If it has an IAC, could this be? O2s? Plugs?

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

check fuel pressure

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

A buddy of mine mentioned it could be sticky injector(s). Would that fit the bill? It would seem to make sense to me that since as they warm up, they behave more normally.

My next steps:
-change fuel filter
-check pressure
-check injectors (what's the best way? just listen for clicking through a screwdriver or something?)

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

I just went out and started it cold this morning; starts perfectly. Could the remote start be doing something different? I don't see how.

Would low ATF cause this maybe?

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

atf is trans fluid no it does not affect how the cars starts only make the car move with the tranny. A single injector will also not make it not start only run bad. Think about it for a second U have 6 injectors right ??why would one not working right make the others not work at all?? And like i said b4 check the fuel pressure b4 u go changing parts unless u have money to spend that u dont want go ahead.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

I know it's probably not one injector, hence why I pluralized it. ;-) I am not new to cars, just new to Chrysler cars. I am repairing the trans pan gasket on Thursday and will also be replacing the fuel filter and checking the pressure then.

I would assume that, just like with my Crown Vic, if fuel pressure is the issue, opening the throttle of course affects the TPS which will supply more fuel, which is why I can get it to start roughly by pressing the accel. Assuming there is a fuel pressure regulator, I may want to check that as well, no?

Fuel filter is cheap, so like I said, I'm going to do that anyway. If pressure is still low after that, I will replace the regulator. If still low, will replace the pump. If I still have starting issues, I will check the injectors. Sound like a good plan?

I noticed a small coolant leak also. I haven't investigated too much yet but it appears it is coming from a freeze plug on the plug a little behind the water pump. Will this require engine removal to replace the plug or can it be done from below? When I looked underneath the car it appears there is very easy access to this area, but appearances can always be deceiving.

I should've mentioned in my first post that there is no CEL either, unless the bulb is burned out. :-P Thanks for your replies, too.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

on chryslers if u open the tps more then ooo 4% it will shut off the injectors so if u feather the gas do it just a little. IF it does fire up then u know its not fuel issue u would have an air flow issue aka throtle bod clogged or IAC motor stuck from all the carbon build up.
The pump and regulator is ONE there is a second regulator at the rail on the passanger side that is done via manafold vac. Do u have a 3.5 or 3.2 engine?? u cant see the water pump if u have a 3.5 just asking and what is cel???

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

CEL = Check Engine Light (I'm sorry, it's a Fordism, as the light in a Ford car that shows if a DTC [diagnostic trouble code] is stored in the PCM says "Check Engine" on it)

I do have the 3.5. I thought I could see the water pump on the top left of the motor if facing the front, there is a pully there, and I can see a green scummy buildup around this device's joint to the motor. Whatever pulley this is, there is caked-on green crap around it but the leak isn't coming from it, at least not in plain view. Where exactly is the water pump located on a 3.5? If you have a picture, that would be excellent. Is the water pump fairly easy to replace on my own? I think I'm going to pick up a Hayne's for this car!!

BTW, it started perfectly fine three out of three times today (morning, afternoon and evening). Very strange. I would think if it was fuel pressure it would've stayed the same or gotten worse. Maybe something in the fuel filter clogged it for a bit but dislodged itself? Filter definitely is getting changed, and I will still be checking the rest as I planned earlier.

I really appreciate all your help!

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

tje water pump on a 3.5 is behind that metal plate where all the pullys and belts are. Its is turned by the Timing belt. If u want to mess with that go ahead if u have experence but not for the first timer. Replace the belt and tensioner while u are in there.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.c...S/80148176.gif

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

I think I found out why this whole issue was happening... I only truly noticed it happen after I tried to do remote-starts before. The remote starter only cranks the engine very briefly (one second), and the couple of times it did this, the motor didn't catch, however the fuel system was still dumping fuel into the CC I believe.

I went to start it up again and it was cranking over and over, finally caught, ran rough and black smoke came out the exhaust and smelled of raw fuel. Motor was "flooded". After about 10 seconds, everything was fine and it ran like a champ. Needless to say, I'm going to start it "manually" for the next week and if I have no issues, then I know exactly what the problem is and I'll have the remote start programmed to instead do a 2-second crank on the starter.

As for the water pump/coolant leak, thanks for the picture. The previous owner says the WP was already replaced, but now I wonder... I am going to pull the cover and see where it's all coming from though, it's either going to be the core plug or the WP. According to a few sources, some minor coolant spillage out of the weep hole is normal in the 3.5, under certain conditions, is this true? I wonder if a) it was overfilled when the water pump was replaced or b) I ran it too hard when I was trying to start it the other day and some spilled out.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

there are 3 other o rings behind the waterpump housing that will also leak from time to time some people will just assume that the pump is the only thing leaking. So the no start only happens with the remote start huh?? that would be an issue yes

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

Well, I guess it isn't the remote start. Went to start it today and crank-crank-crank... Finally started up with the same thing I described before. Black smoke/fuel smell.

Someone from another forum posted a TSB on this issue (the site is down for maintenance otherwise I would post it), has to do with choice of spark plugs and PCM programming on early 3.5s preventing it from starting in freezing temperatures.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

yeah what plugs did u put in it should have factory plugs but that will only cause other issues not a no start.
here is the tsb need to be the build date of this
NO: 18-15-95 SUBJECT: Cold Weather No-Starts DATE: May 5, 1995 NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.5L ENGINE BUILT BEFORE FEB. 17, 1995 (MDH 02-17-XX).so check your build date or this tsb is worthlessu can look on the door plackerd it will have a build date if u dont have one give me last 8 of the vin and i can look on chrysler site.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

No, the TSB says:

"SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Engine fails to start in extremely cold weather (below 0°F.). Engine will crank and may fire intermittently but does not continue running."

That is exactly what mine is doing. Though it's about 25 degrees here.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

dude dont quote me on what the tsb says i have it right infront of me what u see is what they post on the web , not the real tsb u only see a snipit because people want to know this info and that is a way of finding out stuff the whole tsb is this

NO: 18-15-95 SUBJECT: Cold Weather No-Starts DATE: May 5, 1995 NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.5L ENGINE BUILT BEFORE FEB. 17, 1995 (MDH 02-17-XX). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: Engine fails to start in extremely cold weather (below 0° F.). Engine will crank and may fire intermittently but does not continue running. Engine may also fail to jump start. It may be necessary to dry spark plugs and move vehicle to a warmer area (repair bay) to start. DIAGNOSIS: Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS) or the Scan Tool (DRB III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Manual, verify that all engine systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) are present, record them on the repair order for future reference and repair as necessary. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING REPAIR PROCEDURE AND PARTS ARE ONLY INTENDED TO IMPROVE COLDThe tsb STARTING PROBLEMS IN EXTREMELY COLD WEATHER. IT WILL NOT RESOLVE DRIVEABILITY RELATED HARD STARTING OR NO-START COMPLAINTS UNDER OTHER CONDITIONS. EQUIPMENT/PARTS REQUIRED: Quantity Part No. Description 1
CH6000 Scan Tool (DRBIII) 1
CH7035 General Purpose Interface Bus Cable (GPIB) 1
CH7020 Body Cable 5.5 4761838 Mopar 5W30 Motor Oil 1
5281090 Mopar Oil Filter 6
56027275 *Spark Plug (Champion RC-12-LYC)* 1
4275086 Label - Authorized Modification 1
4669020 Label - Authorized Software Update
*Spark Plug, P/N 56027275 (Champion RC-12-LYC), with a .035" gap is the only spark plug certified for the 3.5L engine. For vehicles built between Oct. 24, 1994 and Feb. 17, 1995 the new software included in this bulletin must also be installed. REPAIR PROCEDURE: This bulletin involves changing engine oil and filter and replacing spark plugs, and reprogramming the powertrain control module with new software. [ol][*]Replace the plugs with P/N 56027275. Verify gap of 0.035 in. on new plugs before installation. NOTE: TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE SPARK PLUGS, LIGHTLY GRASP THE RUBBER CAP AT THE TOP OF THE CABLE WITH PLIERS, AND PULL STRAIGHT UP WITH A STEADY TWISTING MOTION. DO NOT PULL ON THE CABLE ITSELF.[*]Change engine oil and filter using Mopar 5W30 oil, P/N 4761838. NOTE: REVIEW WITH THE OWNER THE PROPER USE OF 5W30 ENGINE OIL AS DESCRIBED IN THE OWNERS MANUAL. SAE 5W30 AIDS IN LOW TEMPERATURE STARTING AND IMPROVED FUEL ECONOMY, HOWEVER, CONTINUED USE ABOVE 32 DEGREES F. AMBIENT TEMPERATURE MAY CAUSE INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: MDS AND DRBIII ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM THE FOLLOWING REPAIR. MDS MUST BE OPERATING WITH RELEASE 16 OR HIGHER AND TlL 1080 OR HIGHER INSTALLED.[*]Connect the MDS (Mopar Diagnostic System) and DRBIII (Scan Tool) to the vehicle and power them up.[*]Use the arrow keys and select #2 MDS DIAGNOSTICS on the DRBIII MAIN MENU Screen.[*]Use the arrow keys and select DIAGNOSTIC MENU on the MDS, then press NEXT MENU.[*]Use the arrow keys and select CONTROLLER PROGRAMMING on the MDS, then press NEXT MENU.[*]Use the arrow keys and select PROGRAM CONTROLLER PART on the MDS, then press NEXT MENU.[*]Follow the steps presented on the MDS and DRBIII which will allow the DRBIII to obtain the current part number of the controller.[*]The MDS will display the part number of the controller on the vehicle and the appropriate replacement part number, then press NEXT MENU to begin programming. If the controller on the vehicle has already been updated or programmed, a NO UPDATES AVAILABLE message will be displayed. Check the part number of the controller on the vehicle and compare it to the part number displayed. If the controller has already been updated, then a system problem actually exists and should be corrected.[*]The MDS and DRBIII will prompt the operator for any action needed during the remainder of the programming process. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW.[*]Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update" label, P/N 4669020. Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay. ( See Illustration)[*]Type the necessary information on the Authorized Modification Label and attach the label near the VECI Label. ( See Illustration)[/ol] NOTE: FOR VEHICLES CONSISTENTLY EXPOSED TO TEMPERATURES BELOW 0° F, A MOPAR ENGINE BLOCK HEATER, P/N 82300749, IS RECOMMENDED. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No. Time 08-19-41-96 0.9 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: Code Description FM
Flash Module

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

Dude, don't talk to me like I don't know a thing about cars or service bulletins, and I quoted the line I did from the FULL TSB, which is word-for-word what you posted. I am new to Chrysler, not new to cars. The "dude" thing is really insulting. I appreciate your help thus far but the TSB you posted is exactly what I have, and describes the exact problem I have, and I have just replaced the plugs tonight with the Champions that are stock and OEM, and changed the oil. Still, the issue remains. Only thing left is to have the PCM reprogrammed.

You stated "that will only cause other issues not a no start" ... I corrected you, because the very issue that this TSB does refer to, is a no-start condition in cold temperature.

Your attitude has me taking my problems to another forum. I don't care if I get fewer answers, as long as they don't insult me, I will be fine.

RE: 95 LHS: Cold hard starts
 

READ THE TSB AGAIN NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.5L ENGINE BUILT BEFORE FEB. 17, 1995 (MDH 02-17-XX) if your car was not built in that time frame then this tsb is worthless to U. Also u said u replaced the plugs already after the no start was already taking place and after u changed the plugs and i correct?? if thats true then the plugs had nothing to do with it b4 and after u started to work on the car. The aftermarket plugs will cause other issues such as running rough not a no start. U also said that u checked for a no spark correct again?? the plugs are just the after effect of the coils so they would nothing to do with a no start see where i am comming from sence u have car experence??? AS far as tsbs go u can have all of the same symptoms as u want but if there is a certan build date that it falls under and u arnt in it then its not applied to your make and year. Thats my point i was trying to get to U thats all.