'99 3.2 Oil pan removal
 

It appears I may have some problems worse than expected with the concorde. Plan is to drop oil pan and inspect rod/main bearings. I do not plan to remove engine from vehicle as i am only investigating at this point. Due to the location of the internal oil pump, and, the vehicle crossmember directly beneath the front of the pan, looks like I'm gonna have to raise the engine. Here is the procedure....
1) remove engine mount bolts and raise engine as high as possible with floor jack (say 2-3"); crib between engine mount and frame.
2) using floor jack, jack up front end (at cross member) and support vehicle on stands.
3) remove/roll stabilizer.
4) remove dipstick tube from pan.
4) remove rear mating bracket to transaxle and pan bolts; remove pan

(Question) Will this work, or, must i remove the engine? My concern is whether or not i'll have enough clearance to negotiate the pump and cross member. TIA, James

U do not remove the oil pan to get the to oil pump
Which do u want to do ? Pump or pan

Chryslertech, I want to remove the pan to access the crank. Last night, i lifted the engine to the point the upper plenum was making contact with the windshield sill; however, i still could not remove the pan. As it was dark, i decided to remove the wipers and the top brace member. This evening after work, i will attempt to raise engine further if this is possible. any suggestions? thanks, James

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
1.Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper terminal.
2.Remove dipstick and tube.
3.Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
4.Remove structural collar from rear of oil pan and transmission housing Structural Collar
5.Disconnect engine oil cooler line from pan.
6.Disconnect transmission oil cooler line clips.
7.Remove oil pan Oil Pan - Removal and Installation
8.Remove oil pan gasket.
9.Clean oil pan and all gasket surfaces
ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE
1 Bolt - M8 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) 4 Nut - M6 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
2 Bolt - M6 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) 5 Bolt - M8 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
3 Bolt - M6 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) - - -

INSTALLATION
1.Apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar® Silicone Rubber Adhesive or equivalent at the parting line of the oil pump housing and the rear seal retainer Oil pan Sealing
2.Install oil pan gasket to the engine block.
3.Install pan and attaching fasteners Oil Pan - Removal and Installation
4.Install the structural collar Structural Collar , using the follow procedure:
a.Install the vertical collar to oil pan bolts (1) Torque to 1.1 N·m (10 in. lbs.)
b.Install collar to transmission bolts (2) and tighten to 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
c.Starting with center vertical bolts (1) and working outward, final torque all bolts to 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
5.Lower vehicle and install dipstick and tube.
6.Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level.
7.Connect negative cable.

Chryslertech, with exception to one step not provided for, the removal procedure you have outlined above is understood and completed. However, although the pan will drop, i cannot remove due to the crossmember immediately below the front of the pan, and, the rear lip of the pan not clearing the transaxle housing. This afternoon, i will try to gain more clearance by lifting the engine abit further to see if this will do it. thanks

that's because when u lift the car up on a lift the sway bar is retracted down enough for the pan to get by U have it on a ramp so the suspension is still loaded.

The sway bar isn't the issue, as it has been rolled out of the way. The "cross member" I'm referring to would be the frame member (steel tube) directly beneath the front end of oil pan; also, the rear lip of the pan is still catching the the bottom of the transaxle housing. I am assuming that if i can clear the rear lip of the TA housing, this will help me work the front of the oil pan from above the frame member. I don't know, am I missing something here???? james

I guess so I have never had an issue with removing them

Antother few strokes on the jack and was able to remove the pan. Pan internal was cleaner than expected. Other than some staining and metal fines, no sludge or other material. Removal of wind tray revealed more metal fines in the vicinity of #1 and #2 cylinders. Visually, the main and rod bearings appeared in good shape; no discoloration or other evidence of problem. I checked for play at each connection, and as expected from prior trouble shooting, #2 connecting rod spun a bearing.

Don't plan to spend a whole lot of time or money on this project so have ordered rod bearings. The bearing was completely shot and the crank journal was scored; I used emery cloth to polish the journal and was able to remove majority of the imperfections. Using a Starrett micrometer, and as possible, I obtained measurements on the journal diameter and am out of spec/roundness by as much as .005".

When recieved, will install the rod bearing and post the outcome. thanks,