Concorde 2000 help
 

Thanks in advance for anybody who can help I've been a long time reader and this site has helped me a lot. I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde with a 2002 3.5 L I'm pretty sure it's from a 300M.
I'm the third owner of this car. Anyway here's the deal. The car was running normal I went to a buddy of mine the wedding way out in the Sticks hit a few potholes on the way in and out cuz it was a gravel road.
Made it there and back just fine, the next day my car started up and sounded really weird like it was missing or out of time which I hadn't heard since I was a kid.
My roommate drove it to the store and back and said it did just fine. I got in to go to work four miles away as soon as I put it in reverse it died. I started it back up it was still idling weird I put it in reverse it backed up fine I put it in drive and it died in the middle of street.

Now to the good part, spark plugs were shot change them their gapped correctly the coil packs are all firing everything throwing Spark. Change the fuel pump because it was dead it works properly I'm getting fuel under constant pressure.

The only two codes that came up were for the crank and cam sensors which were both faulty and replaced with correct ones. Once that was done it made a big difference on how it sounded when it was trying to turn over.

Also replace the battery because somebody stole it with a high output battery around 900 something cranking amps. Checked all the relays including the auto shutdown relay everything is righteous.

As of right now the codes are none after I cleared them out there has been no other ones still not running. I have managed to get it to actually start up and run for a few seconds and then it dies again. It has done this twice. Several times it acts like it wants to go ahead and start.

Any thoughts? At this point I'm a little out of my Realm. The last thing I can think of is the timing belt according to all the forums. Or the computer. Sorry for the long post just trying to give all the information I could

Check for loose or corroded connections at the underside of the fuse panel in the engine compartment. Amazing that it would run for your trip(even hitting potholes) and then all this other stuff had to be done.

Thank you I'm actually working on it today we actually got another code tester in because my tablet died that I was using on my Bluetooth one best little $10 I ever spent till my tablet died and nothing else will pair with it it's now showing the camshaft sensor code again so I'm off to get the manufacturer specs and test the resistance of it after that I'm thinking it jumped timing that's what it sounded like when it first fired up that day and that in the starter and the wiring is all that's left but the starter turns it just fine well back to the Grind

Timing Belt is high on the suspect list. Crank/No Start/Cam & Crank sensor codes = Out of time. Bad news as the engine is an interference design meaning the pistons will hit and bend the valves when the belt gets out of time.
Pull the small cover near the alternator (after removing the belt & pulley) and look in.