some one please help!! cam/crankshaft sensor headache!
 

I have a 99 Chrysler 300m. It started sputtering on me, jerking, bucking whatever u want to call it. RPM gage jumping and shutting off while I'm driving or coming to a stop( happened on highway) check engine light came on. No problem starting riggt back up.Had code read at auto zone they said Camshaft position sensor. Got it. Light went off and ran normal for a week or two. Started again.. grrr. Codes read again cause all I read on internet with this car make model said it was both cam and crankshaft sensor. The code didn't read crankshaft sensor it read P 1391. So I don't know what to do. Obviously I can't afford the dealership shop costs or when it first shut off while I was driving that's where it would have went first. Can anyone pls help. I don't know how to work this forum thing so any one can email me at lisajobs77@yahoo.com

Don't buy aftermarket sensors. If it was your crankshaft sensor the car wouldn't start. If it starts then the cam sensor is bad....don't buy aftermarket sensors! Until you can get to a dealership keep the rpms under 2600 and you will be fine. You can also did connect the battery for 10 mins to reset the ecm and the light will go off temporarily.

OEM only and leave the paper "shim" on the tip. That sets the gap from the sensor to the tone ring.

I don,t want the check engine light to go off unlles the issue is fixed. So far after I changed both cam & crankshaft position sensor. So far so good :) not getting my hopes up tho. I kept reading if these two ends up not being the issues then I need to check something called jumping time? What is that? Timing belt?

Oh and the check engine light went off after changing the crankshaft sensor

Chances are if the light is out then your problem is solved. Don't start worrying about other things just yet. Do you know if the water pump and timing belt were changed at 100,000 miles?

I havent had an issue since I changed the crank sensor till today :( on way home from appointment it didnt want to have any real power so I pushed hard on gas and it bucked and sputered. If I do it slow then there is no sputtering. But thats not my issue today, the stupid thing is over heating. I have a toggle switch cause the fan wasnt working. was working no problems. Keeping it cool. noticed thst the antifreeze started boiling..causing there to be two tiny holes above the max line and when it boils (every time I drive it now, but still didnt read abnormally hot) it would spray out and cause steaming from dripping on pipe below. Now it gets hot quick. So ready to ditch car!!

Did you change the cam sensor with an OEM or still have the aftermarket? Do you know if the water pump was changed at 100,000 miles as recommended by Chrysler? Water pump and timing belt is the biggest killer of the 3.5 engines.

No I doubt the timing belt or hoses have been changed. Ever. I think an old couple had it before me. found a hose that was to small that someone tried to jimmyrig it and want even completely on. So ordered a be one from Chrysler. Need a new coolant reservoir. This car is driving me crazy and broke!

Mine did that to me too. After spending almost $6000 fixing it up it blew a radiator hose and I got even.
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Omg im about to pull my hair out, I havent been on here for a few Weeks cause I was able to borrow a car so I had a nice break. But now I have to return the BMW and get back to the 300. I cant even drive the Chrysler more than a few mins before it gets so hot im forced to pull over till it cools. I dont know what else to do. I replaced the coolant reservoir and some hose that apparently wasn't even attached. Its called crankcase something ( Sry, I dont remember what the name if it was at this moment) but either way I got the right one and it was pit on. Its still over heating. It could be so many things according to every 300m owner with this issue, ( thermostat, water pump, timing belt, maybe even spark igs according to one guys story, ) im so ready to burn the bitch. Down, lol. is there anyone out there that has had similar problems with a solution that actually worked?!? All I hear are stories about the same crap but not one person has said "oh ,hey this was my issue and this is what fixed it." Sorry bout the mis spells but my phone is stupid and wont let me go back and correct it if I dont catch it and fix it right away. im sure you understand what I meant to write.

well to hopefully help you out, I had this issues in a different model vehicle, Mine would only overheat driving down the freeway/HI way. It would operate perfect around town and anywhere I drove that I had sections where either I slowed down below 40 or stopped ( Like stop lights)
I tried changing water pump, Thermostat, checked timing finally found the radiator was just a little restricted so the flow was not enough to cool engine at HI way speeds.
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Dang just seen you last post was #11 I should of back read to be up to date on all info