1998 sebring convertible won't start
Hello
I am new to this forum and need help please.
Purchased this convertible for my daughter and it ran great for several weeks. Then it would not start. I replaced the battery after some attempts to diagnose the problem and it ran for about two weeks without problems. Now it will not start again. It cranks like it is not getting fuel, so I replaced the fuel pump. It still will not start. I checked for spark at one of the plugs and see an obvious orange colored spark at the gap. Switched the fuel pump relay with a matching relay, still no start. Before I throw any more parts in, I would appreciate some guidance. Please help, I need to fix this today. Thank you.
I am new to this forum and need help please.
Purchased this convertible for my daughter and it ran great for several weeks. Then it would not start. I replaced the battery after some attempts to diagnose the problem and it ran for about two weeks without problems. Now it will not start again. It cranks like it is not getting fuel, so I replaced the fuel pump. It still will not start. I checked for spark at one of the plugs and see an obvious orange colored spark at the gap. Switched the fuel pump relay with a matching relay, still no start. Before I throw any more parts in, I would appreciate some guidance. Please help, I need to fix this today. Thank you.
Thank you. I will be buying a code reader today and get back with any codes. In the meantime, how do I check the fuel rail? Would a blast of starter fluid confirm or rule out anything helpful? How would I check to see that the fuel pump is working properly? Again, I am very grateful for your help.
You'll need a fuel pressure test set to test for proper fuel pressure. There's no test port so you'll need to disconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail to put in an adapter for the test gauge.
Consider buying a Haynes manual for your car. There's a procedure in there to test the fuel pressure. Read through it to decide if you are up for this or whether you need to let a pro tackle it. Either way, you're ahead with the manual as you can discuss your options more intelligently with your mechanic.
Consider buying a Haynes manual for your car. There's a procedure in there to test the fuel pressure. Read through it to decide if you are up for this or whether you need to let a pro tackle it. Either way, you're ahead with the manual as you can discuss your options more intelligently with your mechanic.
Thank you again. No codes. But the car started and ran for about 10-20 seconds this evening. It sounded a little rough and would not restart after that. I have a manual and I will review the part about checking the fuel pressure. Thank you again. This brief episode of running is very strange.
sounds like the same issue I am having after the car sits a few days, finally get it started and the air out of the fuel system and runs great. The it sits for a day or tow, and back into the same thing. Have not found out what it is yet..
Hello all,
I was able to get this car started after replacing the wires and spark plugs. At the time I planned to replace the distributor, but after removing everything to get access to it, I could not get it out. Anyway, I put it back together and it ran well until yesterday. Now its back to no start. I cannot detect a spark at the plug. The plugs look good, any suggestions on where to check next? I thank you.
I was able to get this car started after replacing the wires and spark plugs. At the time I planned to replace the distributor, but after removing everything to get access to it, I could not get it out. Anyway, I put it back together and it ran well until yesterday. Now its back to no start. I cannot detect a spark at the plug. The plugs look good, any suggestions on where to check next? I thank you.
Last edited by derhube; Jul 16, 2011 at 02:07 PM.
If you've spent any time browsing the posts on this board regarding that engine, you'll have to note that the distributor is the usual suspect in a no-spark/no-start situation. The distibutor contains the coil and cam position sensor, and is probably the weakest link in the ignition system.
Thanks for the advice. During the last episode of non-starting, I tried to get the distributor out, but could not do so. After I gave up and just went with the new wires, plugs, cap and rotor, it started. Any tricks for getting the distributor out?


