My buddy asked me to help him change the rear valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Before I started the car was running fine. When i finished I took it for a test drive around the block and it was running a little rough. I thought it my be from thr oil that was in the tube when I change the spark plugs. When I took it for the second run it died like it ran out of gas. The next day I sprayed some starting fluid in it and it started up and ran. I drove it around the block a couple of times and it died again. Now it doesnt start at all even with starting fluid. Checked the fuel pressure and it is good. Checked for spark and had none. Checked the codes and it has No codes. Removed the manifold again and checked all the wiring it all looks good. I hate to start throwing parts at it. Does anyone know if the crank/cam sensors could go bad without a code?

 

The usual problem with that engine is the distributor. The cam sensor is built into the distributor. Aftermarket distributors seem to be an additional source of complaints.

 

Thanks. Ill check it out today. Will the cam sensor got bad with out a code?

 

One would expect a code for that, but it's not the only problem in the distributor that will produce a non-start condition. The coil is also in there along with everything else.

 

So what distributor would be better a tested used or a new or the remain?

 

Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.

 

Gambling sounds fun.

 

When I went to install the new distributor I had the #1 cyl at TDC on the compression stroke but the cam positions the rotor to the #5 cyl. Today I pulled the top timing belt covers off and found both cam marks were lined up. I still need to check the crank position.

 

Both cam marks and crank position are all lined up. TDC on #1 cyl. but distributor is pointing to # 5 cyl. WTF! Any ideas?

 

Remember, the crankshaft makes two turns for every one turn the distributor makes. You are probably at TDC for the exhaust stroke.