2002 Sebring Convertible 2.7 starter diagnosis.
 

Hello,

I'm working on a 2002 Sebring Convertible v6 that has been blowing the notorious number 8 fuse when the key is turned to start.
With a fresh fuse, when you turn the key to start, the control relay clicks once and the fuse blows instantly. I replaced the relay and the same thing happens.

So, I have it narrowed down to two possibilities:
1) The starter is bad, and somehow the solenoid control circuit is overloading and blowing the fuse.

or
2) There's a short to ground somewhere in the positive side of the solenoid circuit.

My questions are:
- How the heck are you supposed to get to the starter? Is it better to remove the exhaust manifold and come from the top, or to remove the engine mount and come from the bottom? I would just take it to a mechanic, but I'm on a tight budget, and I'm interested in learning something new here taboot.
- I put an ohmmeter across the terminals of the solenoid and got about 530 ohms. Is this a typical vaue, or does it indicate a short to ground?

Anybody out there have experience with this vehicle?

Thank you.

To remove the starter you need to remove the engine mount bracket from the bottom. You'll also need to remove the O2 sensor that's in the way. There are special sockets for removing O2 sensors. After loosening the sensor, run it back in and out a couple of times to knock off rust from the threads so you don't drag a chunk of rust through the threads in the exhaust header pipe.

It sounds like you have a bad starter. Your best bet is to get it out and take it to an auto parts store for testing. Most parts stores will test it for free. Come back and tell us how it went.

Great, thank you for the help and info.

So I need to jack the engine and transmission up a little bit to take the weight off the engine mount. What parts of the underside of the engine are acceptable for jacking?

There are four engine mounts so you don't need to jack up the engine. It's not going anywhere by removing one mount. It should come out by unbolting it. Just remove the parts of it (bracket) that are in the way. You might need to strong arm it out and in again but if you've got three good mounts in there the engine won't fall out.

Well, we got the starter out and took it to Napa, and they tested it and said it was fine.

My logic is this: There are three different circuits that come into play to engage the starter motor: The ignition switch circuit, which triggers the relay on the fuse panel; the output of the relay to the input of the solenoid; and then the big circuit from the battery straight to the starter.

I don't have the wiring diagram for this vehicle (shoulda picked that up while I was at Napa, no doubt). Which circuit is fuse 8 on? Is it between the ignition switch and the relay, or between the relay and the solenoid? If I'm repeatedly blowing that #8 fuse with a good starter, that indicates a short circuit, but in which circuit?

Side question: in the fuse box, fuse #8 is 20A, and is labled as "starter". Fuse number 1 is a 40 amp, and is labeled ignition swtich. Wouldn't it make sense to have the smaller fuse on the ignition switch side of the relay?

Thanks again for your help.

The wiring diagrams occupy about 200 pages of the shop manual. They don't have them at NAPA on the shelf unless you can get a factory shop manual there. The Haynes manual contains some wiring diagrams but they are very incomplete.

Fuse #8 gets battery voltage in the Power Distribution Center (PDC - the fuse box under the hood) and sends it to the starter via the relay, ignition switch and the fuel pump via the relay. A short in the fuel pump circuit could blow that fuse.
Try pulling the fuel pump relay and see if the fuse still blows. If not, then check that circuit.

Fuse #1 feeds a whole lot of things and that 40 amp fuse is there for a reason.